The Tamesis
It wasn’t until last spring that I understood what the term “non-comedogenic” really meant. Acne, however, is a language I’ve been familiar with for 15 years. Routine dermatologist appointments; a revolving door of prescriptions; and even the occasional steroid injection to quell a particularly stubborn cystic pimple, cantankerous breakouts become less of an inconvenience and more like a long-term management plan. Despite my parents’ assurances that I would eventually grow out of it, clear skin as an adult has never been a surprising reward. Even with a bathroom cabinet full of so-called “anti-acne” products, I still can’t get cystic acne to mysteriously appear on my chin or cheeks overnight. Until the universe scheduled me an appointment with celebrity beautician Sofie Pavitt, who took a look at my skin and gave me some advice that would change my skin forever.
Comedogenicity refers to ingredients that can clog pores and trap bacteria and debris in acne-prone skin, she explains. “Comedogenicity levels are not set in stone,” Pavitt says. Fashion. “A company’s view of non-pore clogging can vary widely across product lines. I basically know that comedogenic ingredients affect the skin differently depending on where they are in the product formula. I don’t expect the average consumer to be able to detect that. So when I’m getting my message out to my customers, the path of least resistance is to avoid these potentially pore-clogging ingredients during the skin cleansing process.”
fashion magazine Favorite non-comedogenic beauty products
Bioderma Sensibo H2O Micellar Water
Read more
Vanicream Gentle Cleanser
Read more
Sofie Pavitt Mandelic Acid Cleansing Serum
Read more
When I got home, I opened my vanity and started double-checking every label—cross-referencing the formula with the acne-safe ingredient checker (following Pavitt’s instructions) and weeding out anything that didn’t qualify. Along the way, I discovered that many products marketed as “acne-free” still contain a variety of potentially pore-clogging ingredients: oils and butters (shea, jojoba, avocado), certain waxes (looking at you beeswax), and even surfactants (a fancy word for the powerhouse of most facial cleansers) and several extracts. If I followed the beautician’s instructions, almost immediately, half my makeup bag would be unusable.
Her philosophy is to eliminate first, then try. “Once the skin becomes clear, it’s easier to see if a new product might be causing a problem,” Pavitt says. “I always advise my clients to use a new product one at a time to test for irritation.” This approach is not about fear-mongering but about starting over and then intentionally reintroducing the product.
Pavitt assured me, however, that this militancy is not a permanent mission. Once skin transitions from a cycle of regular breakouts to something closer to maintenance mode (think: frequent cleansing) there’s room to loosen the grip. Although to be honest, now that I have reduced my eating habits, I don’t find it restrictive. It’s a wonderful feeling to cut back on the excess and finally part ways with the products I once held.
