The Tamesis
“The mood this season is one of curiosity,” said Nick Tran, Paris buying director at Dover Street Market, of what to expect from Milan Fashion Week (MFW) Fall/Winter 2026. He went on to ask everyone’s question: “What will Demna bring to Gucci? What will Meryll Rogge bring to Marni? What will Maria Grazia Chiuri bring to Fendi? What will Simone Bellotti bring to Jil Sander, what will Louise Trotter bring to Bottega Veneta?” to show in their sophomore collection? “
All will be revealed in the next 7 days. But it’s clear that if last season marked a major reckoning at Paris Fashion Week, with dozens of designers debuting at major luxury brands, this season Milan is at a creative crossroads. New creative directors at Gucci, Fendi and Marni will make their runway debuts, the Armani brand is finding a new rhythm, and several of the city’s emerging designers will solidify their visions with their second or third shows.
Add to that the surge of fresh talent, the influx of new brands this week and the halo effect of the Winter Olympics, which ends on February 22, and there’s plenty to consider at MFW FW26, which runs from February 24 to March 1. There will be 52 physical shows and 89 presentations this week, including Prada (“always a highlight,” Tran said), Diesel, Ferragamo, Missoni, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro and Max Mara, as well as the aforementioned brands.
Carlo Capasa, president of Italy’s National Fashion Council (CNMI), expects the autumn/winter 2026 fashion week to have a “pragmatic and dynamic” atmosphere in response to the turbulent retail background. The bankruptcy of Saks Global is the latest in a series of retailer woes that are looming, with luxury goods groups Kering, LVMH and OTB, which own Gucci, Fendi and Marni respectively, all facing declining growth in fiscal 2025. With the next round of debuts and second shows coming up, their brands will need a solid creative foundation to further recover from the slowdown in the luxury industry.
“on the one hand [this season] There will be a desire for creative motivation [because debuts raise the bar]. On the other hand, people have a very specific understanding of the economic situation,” Capasa said. “The retail landscape is clearly undergoing a major shift, and multi-brand stores are facing particular pressures. This is a structural shift that cannot be ignored. “
Main appearance
Chiuri will make her fashion show debut as Fendi’s chief creative officer on Wednesday afternoon. It’s something of a homecoming: the Roman designer worked in accessories at Fendi from 1988 to 1999 (including co-designing the iconic Fendi Baguette). Now she’s back after nine years of commercial success at Dior. “I really want to see Maria Grazia at Fendi,” said FashionTiziana Cardini. “That’s my biggest curiosity.”
On Thursday, Belgian rising star Meryll Rogge, winner of the 2025 Andan Prize, will make her first appearance at Marni after being appointed Marni brand director last July. Stefano Rosso, CEO of Marni and successor to the brand’s parent company OTB Group, said during the show that he was satisfied with the timing of the show, given that this season’s major new product debuts are not too saturated. fashion business Global Summit: The Middle East in November.
Then, it’s freshman year. On Friday afternoon, Gucci, Kering’s largest brand, will officially enter the next creative era as Demna holds its first fashion show for the brand. He has already launched two collections: “La Famiglia” (presented through a film screening during SS26 Milan Fashion Week 2026) and “Generation Gucci” (a lookbook for pre-fall pieces inspired by the archives). But Gucci insists that Friday’s show moment, which was followed by a massive party and a secret musical performance, formally revealed Demna’s vision for the Italian brand.
