The Tamesis
This season, Meruert Tolegen kept things private, clearing out her SoHo boutique for a moody show. As models slowly made their way across raised platforms, dark walls, dimmed lights and violinist Tesya Losmakova playing Mozart’s “Tears” and Bach’s “deconstructed” versions Suite No. 2 The piece in D minor adds to the mystery. Overhead lights illuminate the garments, while guests move around the edges of the room, lowered into shadows.
Intimacy is also reflected in the details of the collection. While many of the silhouettes, such as the 18th-century rucksack, were throwbacks from her previous runway collections, Tolegen found ways to subtly alter them to make them appear mature. For example, a hip-rising corset paired with a cropped jacket made of synthetic braids looked luxurious under the bright lights—a stark contrast to some of the lightness of last season.
The more relaxed look follows a similar path. Corsetless garments have a tighter look, such as knitted sweaters and pussy-bow blouses. Meanwhile, wool herringbone pieces, like a structured synthetic fleece jacket, bring needed weight. Original CFDA/Fashion Fashion Fund finalists are finding their groove.
