The Tamesis
For Laduma Ngxokolo, the Paris shows are more than just fashion. He is the only African brand on PFW’s official calendar, and as such he continues to make statements about Africa’s role as a fundamental, active contributor to the global creative conversation. “We as a continent influence fashion, lifestyle, music and even film culture,” the Johannesburg-based designer noted backstage before the show. “Afrotech is the fastest growing music in the world at the moment. My goal is not to make Western European culture more accessible. I don’t want to blend in and get lost in translation; I’m going backwards.”
The fall collection’s theme is “Siyi-Kulture” (or “We are the culture”), showcasing Xhosa as a dynamic, ever-evolving language expressed through fashion and dance. For the first time, Nxokolo expanded his native Xhosa culture to include bold patterns from four other South African cultures: Zulu, the country’s largest culture; Pedi, from the northern region; Tsonga, known for its lavish layering; and Swati, “the latter of which is more ornate,” he said. The choice was deliberate: Maxhosa found customers in these cultures. “It’s not common. People tend to shy away from other cultures because they don’t want to look like they’re compromising their identity,” Ngxokolo observed.
Thematically, the collection recalls African music, rhythm and movement, exploring the idea of choreography through the brand’s signature knitwear, beading and intarsia. Crisp separates sit side by side with sportswear fabrics, blending a sense of ceremony with sportiness. The color palette is equally intentional, translating traditional design codes into a festive parade of turquoise, poppy, hot yellow and black and white graphics. Nxokolo notes that this boom coincides perfectly with the winters back home. “It’s not particularly cold; people wear fancy clothes in the winter,” he said. “If I were to treat this collection as a representative study of where it should be, then I would not be reflecting the true nature of the African winter.”
As he parted, Nxokolo reflected on the habits of some high-spending shoppers: “A lot of presidents’ wives fly to Paris to spend money. I don’t think there’s a need to be stressed about it. I hope people do the opposite – if someone has a lot of money, fly to South Africa and identify with us.”
