The Tamesis
While many this season are looking for sharper, geometric objects, Maria McManus channels something more understated: the rolling misty landscape of her home in Ireland. “When it rains lightly, they call it a ‘soft day,'” she said. The term evokes the imagination wonderfully and is illustrated through a muted color palette.
While not a traditional source of inspiration, the starting point for the series came from Irish poet and former president Michael D. Higgins, an outspoken advocate for preserving Irish culture. While her efforts are often represented through literature and art, McManus wanted to shape her conservation project through clothing, which consists of Alain knitwear and softly slanted silhouettes set in her New York City neighborhood. This led her to quote a passage from Beowulf, translated by Seamus Heaney: “Admirable conduct is the path to power for people everywhere.”
At the heart of McManus is a commitment to sustainable production. She would like to see other American designers replicate this behavior on a larger scale, as she feels the popularity of sustainable practices is declining again. A sleek python-print leather skirt was made from scrap leather fabric sourced from a New York factory, while a hand-crocheted headscarf was knitted by a Lower East Side artist. Elsewhere, a ribbed fisherman sweater combines Irish flair with recycled Italian cashmere and cotton.
In this collection, McManus managed to capture something warm and cozy while retaining an elegant feminine charm. Romantic details abound: Alain’s knitwear has pearl buttons, and the neckline of a black velvet dress is trimmed with vintage pearl-embellished georgette ribbon. Few designers these days emphasize the softer side of design. Many women want to feel the refreshing embrace of her silhouette.
