The Tamesis
London Fashion Week (LFW) 2026 autumn and winter kicked off today. The organizer, the British Fashion Council (BFC), is committed to rebuilding its scale and international reputation, with a larger schedule and stable momentum.
“This season has been full of motivation and confidence,” BFC CEO Laura Weir said of the second LFW she has led. According to the BFC, the official calendar featured 90 designers and organizations, including 41 fashion shows and 20 talks, marking an 11% year-on-year increase in brand influence, while confirmed media attendance increased by 36% and buyers by 17%.
From day one, we could feel the scale. Thursday’s opening ceremony, traditionally a light-hearted prologue to a week reserved for evening events, kicked off with a series of talks and performances marking London’s efforts to rebuild density. Weir said the BFC had once again waived fees to “reduce barriers to entry” and doubled investment in its international guest program in an effort to bring international attention back to the British capital.
The broader ecosystem is also expanding. A new designer showcase will be hosted within the BFC Center at 180 Strand, providing showcase opportunities for those who have previously participated in the NewGen incubation programme, including 11 designers including Ahluwalia, Aaron Esh and Nicholas Daley. Weir said the aim of the showcase was to “build stronger connections between emerging talent, media and buyers”. Retail and cultural events will also coincide with the fashion shows, from LFW in-store at Selfridges and a Dover Street Market pop-up showcasing jewelery from the BFC Foundation and its member brands, to an H&M Studio townhouse takeover and events at Piccadilly Lights hosted by BFC patrons Topshop and John Lewis.
Familiar names such as Erdem, Simone Rocha and Richard Quinn remain fixtures, all on display on Sunday, while several brands return to the schedule. As usual, Burberry will be closing LFW on Monday evening. Joseph returned to the runway on Friday for the first time in nearly a decade, his first show since hiring creative director Mario Arena in November 2024. Chet Lo returns on Saturday after hosting the dinner after taking a break last season. Also on Saturday, Masha Popova, Julien Macdonald and Karoline Vitto return to LFW, while on Monday, Marques Almeida will also appear.
As ever, emerging talent remains at the heart of London’s image. New brands coming out of London this season include minimalist womenswear brand Selasi; women’s tailoring label Liberowe; and contemporary designer Yuhan Ao, who was inspired by growing up with his grandmother working in a Chinese linen mill. Raw Mango, an Indian luxury brand known for its saris and lehengas, has also joined the initiative. There are also young, experimental voices among the emerging brands, including Leo Prothmann (which did not show as planned last season and is known for its leather goods), accessories brand Clara Chu and custom evening wear brand Agro Studio.
“There’s definitely a sense of excitement. I’m particularly looking forward to London Fashion Week for several reasons, including the Central Saint Martins show, which only takes place during February Fashion Week,” said Brigitte Chartrand, chief buying officer at Net-a-Porter, highlighting Erdem and Simone Rocha as other key highlights.
In addition to the catwalk, the evening program also includes JW Anderson, Labrum London, Di Petsa, a dinner hosted by the BFC in partnership with the British Film Institute (before the British Academy Film and Television Arts Awards on Sunday) and more. Knwls, who performed in Milan last season, are hosting pop-up events for their community, while David Koma is hosting cocktail parties.
“London has always shaped the cultural conversation,” Weir said. “By bringing a wider, more influential international voice to the city, we ensure London Fashion Week’s global influence continues to grow both commercially and culturally.”
