The Tamesis
Some designers go on inspirational trips. JJ Martin performed the visual assignment. She recently traveled to Ireland, where she visited “crumbling ruins, galactic charged rocks and energy portals.” The experience culminated at Trinity College, Dublin, where her team had the opportunity to see the Book of Kells, a ninth-century illuminated manuscript. “Literally, they were all on LSD,” Martin shared. “I couldn’t believe what I was seeing, I was so inspired.” Martin and her team repurposed the swirling, kaleidoscopic patterns and animal prints from Columban monks’ colorful paintings into prints on pajama sets, jumpsuits and dresses, including striking new styles with goddess-like draped sleeves. They also became oversized appliqués on knitted capes.
At La DoubleJ, swinging exuberant minimalism still reigns supreme, although the rest of Milan seems to be retreating to safe and secure black. Each mannequin on the star deck she calls her headquarters is accessorized with a pendant necklace from her thriving jewelry collection—24-karat gold plates, enamel and gemstone fireflies, scarabs, portal pendants, and brooches—as well as colorful fringed leather sandals crafted by Indian artisans. All ready-to-wear garments are made in Italy, except for the embroidery, which is also done in India and appears not only on dresses but also on some of the more modest tailoring pieces: a gray coat covered in pink feathers and pearl buttons, a camel wool suit with confetti-like fringe on the jacket arms and skirt hem.
Martin wore glasses, the tortoiseshell frames swiveled in a way not unlike her Kells-esque print. Is La DoubleJ’s next optics line coming? “Do I need one?” she smiled. It wouldn’t be a surprise if this optimistic doer can get it done next time we get together to see what she’s up to in the Star Quarters.
