The Tamesis
Khoki is always looking for its roots.
Run by a team of understated smart designers, the brand has grown in popularity among menswear fans but has sometimes struggled to articulate its design identity. This season, the team sought to address this issue by refining the language of what they do, asking: What makes something feel “Khoki”? Themes that emerged along the way included flea markets, beauty in chaos, and general themes of American folk art.
Last season, the focus was on hand-dyed in Kyoto, which meant there were far fewer of the brand’s familiar elements, such as quilting. It may look good, but buyers are confused. “To me, it’s a chaotic beauty, blending Japanese heritage and everything else into one collection. But from a sales perspective, it doesn’t really translate,” Koki Abe said.
Fall 2026 is a season of reflection and consolidation, appropriately filmed in Abe’s childhood home. “It represented the intersection of my team’s work and my family. We wanted to capture the landscape of my hometown, which at the time felt boring and prison-like,” he said. Repurposed from “uncool” cushion covers from Abe’s parents and aunt’s house, these fluffy floral pieces were contrasted with bow-legged painter’s pants and some drapey pinstripe trousers with puffy velvet miniskirts.
The most appealing clothes are those that embody the brand’s greatest strength: whimsy. This is reflected in the MA-1 bomber, with vibrant patchwork, romantic lace cuffs derived from striped shirts, and tough canvas workwear jackets spliced with surprisingly soft Cowichan sweaters. Very charming – yes, very Corky.
