The Tamesis
This is Joseph’s first fashion show in nearly ten years. The last one was held in September 2017 and was hosted by Louise Trotter, now of Bottega Veneta. Joseph Ettedgui has gone through difficult times since growing the company from a London hairdresser’s shop into a full-fledged ready-to-wear brand in the 1970s and 1980s.
But it is quietly rebuilding. In an effort to refocus the loss-making business, CEO Barbara Campos, who took over in 2018, closed its menswear unit and exited the U.S. market. In 2022, she achieved profitability for the first time during her tenure, and in 2024, she hired Mario Arena as Joseph’s creative director.
Arena, who has worked for the likes of JW Anderson, Christopher Kane and Nanushka, looked to sculptural art in his first collection for Joseph on the catwalk. “I find inspiration in sculptural techniques by creating softness and lightness in flat mediums, reimagining them into effortless pieces with structural shapes, deep folds and movement,” he says.
While there were a few structured pieces—a belted cape dress and a cashmere two-piece jingled with 3D-printed metallic quills—most silhouettes were truly fluid and airy. There are also flowing wide-leg pant suits in twill satin; ankle-grazing maxi denim skirts; gray silk and gold lamé fabrics paired with a python print on simple bodycon knits and alpaca shawls; and a selection of footwear. The best part is the cashmere and culottes suit, which makes sense paired with braided leather knee-high boots or short-heeled python pumps. See-through tops are less necessary.
