The Tamesis
Alex Kessler, iD Deputy Editor
It would be wise to begin with a tribute to Consuelo Castiglioni. The first look felt like a nod to the brand’s DNA, setting a confident tone for Meryll Rogge’s Marni debut. You can see the outlines of this art collector, somewhat cerebral, beautifully offbeat woman with a job (!) starting to take shape. However, as the show unfolds, she seems to become a whole cast of characters, each with their own wardrobe, and the narrative becomes a bit crowded. What really gets me about it is the middle section, all the glitter, crunchy textures and glorious funky color clashes. The feeling is instinctive and energetic. I like a well-dressed woman.
Menswear may take more time to develop. Still, as a debut, there’s real promise. It’s powerful to see a woman take the helm, carry on that legacy and begin to shape it with her own voice.
Nick Tran, Purchasing Director, Dover Street Market, Paris
This is Consuelo’s work remixed with today’s contemporary music. I love these ornaments; the sound they make when they walk is magical.
Jack Moss, Wallpaper Fashion Features Director
I think Meryll really captures the idea of eclecticism at the heart of Marni, not just in the clash of prints and embellishments—stripes, florals, giant sequins—but also in the way that a parka or a sweater is paired with a cocktail dress, that mix of elements. It really feels like a return to the spirit of Consuelo and the origins of the brand. There was also some great menswear that felt unexpected: broad-shouldered cuts, riffs on sportswear, references to Western clothing. This is a strong start.
Patrick Pendiuk, fashion director of Vogue Germany
I was delighted to see this collection professionally and have been a Marni client for many years. A lot of the looks reminded me of the Castiglioni Marni I fell in love with, and there were some that screamed Meryll’s name in the best possible way. Overall, it’s a safe and sound start to a new era for Marni, plus some jackets that I absolutely can’t resist buying for myself.
Carlo Capasa, President of the Italian Fashion Council
I think it’s a great collection and a perfect interpretation of Marni. I really feel like Marni has come home, but in a new way. Just have it [another] Designers in Milan, I’m happy because it brings a great energy to the week.
More information on this topic:
Marni’s third chapter begins now with Meryll Rogge
Meryll Rogge appointed as Marni’s new creative director
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