The Tamesis
This article first appeared in British Vogue.
Given that the largest portion of fashion’s carbon footprint comes from the production of materials, it makes sense that there have been so many innovations in this area in recent years—from mushroom leather to algae sequins. This is why Gucci opened a research center in 2024 in the Tuscan town of San Miniato, home to some of the most famous tanneries in the world. “The center was created to research, develop and test all our innovative materials,” Marie-Claire Daveu, chief sustainability and institutional affairs officer at Gucci parent company Kering, told us Fashion.
While a number of startups have emerged over the years (all of which have failed given the challenges of scaling new materials), Gucci decided to bring its research and development in-house to ensure that any innovations met the Italian fashion house’s necessary specifications. “us [need] Of course, combining sustainability with excellent technical performance to ensure that it ultimately reaches the level expected by Gucci and the luxury industry,” Daveu said of the move to establish the brand’s own research center.
A point? Leather is known for its huge carbon footprint, and Gucci is exploring more sustainable ways of producing animal leather as well as vegan alternatives. “Our aim is to shape the tannery model of the future, capable of processing leather and new materials, improving quality, versatility, and being more efficient, sustainable and circular,” explains Daveu. “When you do that, you solve climate change, water consumption and water pollution.”
In Gucci’s research laboratory inside the Marbella tannery, hundreds of leather samples hang from a conveyor belt in a variety of colors, from classic black to lively lime green. At any given time, scientists are testing countless iterations of 10 to 20 new materials in an airy room nicknamed the “kitchen,” providing mixes for different “recipes.” A variety of machines next door allow the team to assess how materials react to different finishing processes, from dyeing to embossing. Then there’s the impressive high-tech climate chamber, which tests how samples age over time by subjecting them to tropical conditions.
It was in this laboratory that Demetra, Gucci’s vegan leather alternative to be launched in 2021, was conceived, before the center is officially launched in 2024. Made from 75% plant-based materials, including responsibly sourced viscose, wood pulp and non-GMO corn plastic, Demetra will be used as part of the brand’s Horsebit 1955 bag collection in 2023, with a lower carbon and water footprint than traditional leather. “If we want to achieve all our goals [climate] “To achieve our goals, we need innovative raw materials,” said Daveu. “Gucci develops innovative ways [means] You have performance and quality. “
