The Tamesis
Editor’s note: The much-missed Helmut Lang is a subject new exhibition MAK in Vienna. As part of Vogue Runway’s ongoing effort to document the history of fashion shows, we will end 2025 by adding as complete a digital collection of shows as possible to the site. The Fall 1995 ready-to-wear collection was launched in March 1995 in Paris.
The more time I spend with Helmut Lang’s past work, the more cautious I am about approaching it with expectations, because the designer surprises me every time. to 1995 Fashion Identifying him as “both a classicist and a minimalist”. minimalist This term often sticks together like super glue. As a result, the influence of Lang’s latent romanticism – which slowly but brilliantly unfolded in his fall 1995 show – was intensified.
Things got off to an intense start, with Stella Tennant wearing a tailored black narrow coat, paired with a black top and black trousers, with white bands at the knees and deep cuffs that widened slightly as they ran up from the ankles. This is a city uniform with points of interest. If it weren’t for the embellished spectator heels, it would look a bit androgynous. This two-tone silhouette has a ladylike vibe, and Lang incorporates it in his own way.
FashionThe collection is summed up by “classic Balenciaga shapes with high-performance details.” These included Lang’s use of reflective materials, which appeared on utilitarian and formal garments, including knee-length skirts with trains. A panel of chiffon flows from the back of the lingerie-style dress. Many of them have elastic harnesses and some have lace straps. Yes, there’s a pink two-piece set with sheer sequins, but there’s also a perfect khaki set. The boyish hat corresponds to the feather-trimmed hair. Herringbone trousers feature a strip of polished gold satin at the waist for pure elegance. Lang never adds anything to anything, but his Midas touch is undeniable.
