The Tamesis
Harris Reed Bride Arrives. In the revamped Claridge’s Hotel ballroom, the four walked down an aisle covered in magenta, sky blue and sponge-colored veils. This is the debut of the London designer’s “Fluid Bridal” collection, which comes in four styles. These include the Camille, inspired by Reed’s first sheer, slinky custom wedding dress for Camille Charriere; the Chantilly lace, crystal-embellished cape collar shirt and flared pants that reference the designer’s own wedding attire; and the Debutante, which features the brand’s signature foam mermaid sole. Reed’s clients are obsessed with performance and fantasy, more like mermaids than any fixed gender.
In addition to wedding dresses, he also set out to explore elements of true minimalism. “Some people define ‘maximalism’ as ‘too much’ or unintentional. I use it as a tool to create character,” Reed says of the 19 looks in his largest collection to date. “This season is as dramatic as ever, but I hope there’s more wearability. We want to really affirm the world and the lifestyle. We’re looking at ways to stay in London while growing the business on my terms.” The upcoming interior collection is part of his brand-building plan. “But we will never be a ‘jeans and T-shirt girl'” brand, he added.
The client’s carefully adapted costume sculptures remain and serve as lamps for their home. Lindsey Wixson, for example, opened the show in a huge fuchsia bow dress. In terms of wearability, he showed off new tailored silhouettes, a mix of tiger patterns and a variety of burnt and wave textures. The tailoring moved away from Savile Row-style suits and the 1970s shapes he had previously favored, incorporating elegant bags at the hips and open back. Elsewhere, bodice silhouettes featured face-covering necklines and halo-like rings, while caged waists exposed shards of skin against gold quilts, burnt cobalt blue velvet, and pink jacquards. The works are as exaggerated as ever, but there is also a new sense of release. Maybe an architectural jacquard bustier with Klein blue feathers will actually suit your boot shape.
