The Tamesis
Influenced by ’80s figure skaters, schoolgirls and plenty of retro Americana, Gabe Gordon and Timothy Gibbons’ collections embrace the Olympic atmosphere while remaining hot and fun.
“We created a story about a group of college skaters who are on retreat, and it takes place in the early ’80s,” Gordon said backstage after the show. “We thought about their training camp bunks, starchy wools and rotting mattresses and fabrics.” One thing led to another, and the idea became the basis for some of their tailoring, using distressed flannel to create skate-style uniforms lined with taffeta that showcased their experimental taste.
As young designers in New York, many of Gordon and Gibbons’ clients included their own friends. If their past few series have been about sensationalism, this season they’re about to get a reality check. “We also tried to start thinking about the brand in a business way and make it part of the process without feeling restricted,” Gibbons said. When asked what their best-selling product is, they mentioned cold weather and how their friends asked them to make longer versions of their pleated alpaca sweaters. This season, you’ll find just that in a full-length cozy campfire sweater. For those who prefer to expose some skin, the sexiness isn’t entirely lost: cropped versions are available (although they may cause frostbite, coincidentally the title of their collection.)
For business reasons, the two designers began to focus on who their target customers were, rather than their immediate circle. Gordon hopes to redefine what the girl next door looks like in America today. “I’m in awe of the athletes and the girls in the high school,” he said. “I want to be that girl and dress like her, but I’m a boy and I’m gay. But I want the new generation of girls to be softer, weirder, and definitely more gay. Definitely always strong.” With this strong mindset, the design duo isn’t slowing down.
