The Tamesis
Marc Jacobs explains the evolution of the Vuitton collection. “We had a big event during the show – the reopening of the Paris flagship store, so the collection had to be sexy, hot and exciting,” he recalls. “We looked at Versace, Ferré, Krizia, which is an area that has been absent recently. We have introduced stilettos with lots of little buckles and bags with badges, which are definitely a nod to Versace.” The bags have not gone into production, but for Jacobs, the sentiment remains unchanged. “Gianni is much more appreciated now. In time, you look back and realize how important he was.”
Jacobs reviewed our classic Alaïa knitted sheath dress and concluded: “I would never touch an Azzedine piece. Not even 20 His work doesn’t look dated either. I’d love to see a girl wearing flats instead of a pair of crappy shoes. I would do the same with the Eiffel Tower Versace dress. It has its charm, but it’s surprising that a girl wears it with a 2006 style irony. It must be on the wrong girl. “
Ann-Sofie Back walks around in Versace gown with stunning 3D With a chain-mail fly-shoulder detail, she said: “It would be very short. I would cut it to the end of the side slit and pair it with sheer black tights and chain-mail shoes.” The shimmering Eiffel Tower dress, she said with a sigh, “had so many colors. I would pair it with something mismatched, like a beige trench coat.” Alaïa, however, made her eyes light up. “This is OK! It is almost like Jodhpur fabric. I would add a wide belt that doesn’t quite fit, something matte, brown, distressed. The lower body is a white shirt. Red lipstick. Hair shaved back. “
Christopher Kane is finishing up his graduation collection of frilly lace skirts inspired by Melanie Griffith working girl. He laid the Versace robe on the gown template in his college studio and sighed, “This was his last collection in 1997; I was just working on it!” he thought for a moment. “It should be mid-thigh. I’ll knot it at the side and roll it up, then add a tapered heel and a platform. Hair is put into a regular ponytail with a leather headband.” He also loves the Eiffel Tower dress. “You need a pair of Prada platform ankle boots and royal blue opaque tights. They look great with a large-shouldered tailored jacket or a crisp waistcoat; it’s masculine.” He picked up the Alaïa and inspected the seams religiously. “Bare legs look normal; I’ll wear a peach mink bodysuit that shows through the seams. And an Alain cardigan that’s cropped and turned up to expose the back.”
Donatella Versace confirmed that Kane was right about the 1997 dress. When we arrive at the palatial Versace apartment in Milan, she makes her take on the trend clear in a pair of photos from the spring collections of Vuitton, McQueen, Balenciaga and Marios Schwab (another nineties revivalist on London’s radar), as well as references from the Versace archives. Next to Vuitton’s medallion bag is a 1992 Versace Medusa head bag; a bright pink wet look from 1995 and a LV replica. McQueen’s leather slip dress was in stark contrast to Gianni’s famous bondage collection from ’92. Balenciaga’s black and white scarf print and gold shield belt were pinned next to Versace’s ’88 “Black Fashion” collection. Marios Schwab’s white curvy strapless dress looks very similar to the 1995 Madonna photo. In some cases, Donatella’s skewers are almost exact replicas of the photos.
