The Tamesis
Francesco Scognamiglio wanted to send a message of peace through his spring collection, given what he described as “the situation in the world that is spinning out of control.” Christian symbolism was a strong theme – he titled the series “Resurrection.” Another is his commitment to handmade craftsmanship.
The designer was personally involved in the creation of some of the costumes, including the opening look. A mid-length ivory dress made using Bouillonné techniques, it was one of the first creations he experimented with in his atelier as a young man.
Religious imagery is evident in many pieces, such as a chiffon tunic trimmed with handmade lace that evokes church stucco and featuring a statue of Christ at the center of the chest. Deliberately blurring the distinction between the genders was another Scognamiglio style statement, this time expressed through a sharp ivory tuxedo with wide satin lapels and strict black trousers paired with a lace-embellished white chiffon blouse.
On the other hand, the designer also believes that extremely sensual femininity can be enhanced with a touch of luxury (hence the homage to Madonna) bedtime story-period hairstyle). Transparent gowns were the protagonist, with three-dimensional sequins and crystal flowers (again made by Scognamiglio himself) or symmetrical stone embellishments. Later, a full crystal-encrusted gown was paired with a corset with tapered cups, further emphasizing femininity – a clear nod to the 1950s. To cap off his spring proposals, he unveiled a collection of wedding dresses: from an ornately embellished slip dress to a layered organza embroidered with drop-shaped crystals on the bodice.
