The Tamesis
Staring into Maria Grazia Chiuri’s kohl-shadowed eyes, I suddenly felt uneasy. “Male designers can also design women’s clothing,” she said sarcastically. “But female designers can’t design menswear.” I just asked a question about her first menswear show as Fendi’s chief creative officer in June. A clumsy question and a slight misunderstanding led to a wry clarification about misogyny in fashion.
She warms up, raises her eyebrows, smiles, and leans forward. “Because geniuses are only men! Creative people, only men!” She paused, as if thinking: “What about Miuccia Prada? But she was the founder, eh? Chanel, poverty? Schiaparelli? It’s like a chef: a chef is man. There is another Tsokha [female cook] Not equal. Nothing has changed. “
wait. What about Chiuri’s own record of change? In 2016, she became the first female creative director of Christian Dior (responsible for womenswear, haute couture and accessories, but not menswear). Over the next nine years, her female-centric, feminist, collaborative approach to design and storytelling at the French brand certainly changed that narrative: for while her collections sometimes divided critics, they almost always fascinated customers. By the way, her income nearly quadrupled along the way.
“Yes, everyone remembers me because I designed the plus size at Dior! When male designers design plus sizes, [it is because] He has business acumen. But if a female designer makes it big, it’s because she commercial“. She elaborates on the word business in the same dismissive way that the word is often used in the fashion world (though not by CEOs). “It’s a mentality. This is culture! “As Chiuri said, I think passing by Virginie Viard works at Chanel.
When faced with friendly fire, it’s time to divert attention. Let’s go back to Fendi. In October last year, six months after she left Dior, Chiuri was appointed chief creative officer of Fendi. In 1989, at the age of 24, Chiuri began her career as an accessories designer at Fendi. She was working at Fendi when she had children, where she was mentored by the five Fendi sisters (Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla and Alda) in a supportive culture she often described as a sorority.
New Fendi accessories campaign shot by Maria Grazia Chiuri, photographed by Jo Ann CallisPhoto: Courtesy of Fendi
Chiuri took control of the situation. “The same goes for the Fendi sisters. Everyone just talks about Karl Lagerfeld like they didn’t do anything. I’m sorry, eh.” She smiled so broadly that the balloon was punctured. “I’m sorry! I am my own Broca! (I’m really going to lose my temper!) I don’t want to discuss the system. I am…this is…so boring“.
