The Tamesis
Erdem Morarioglu, Alina Jo
Despite falling snow and freezing winds, New Yorkers headed uptown this week, gathering at the Metropolitan Museum of Art for the latest episode of “The Atelier,” hosted by Alina Cho. This time, the reporter was joined by Erdem Moralioglu—dressed in crisp navy and crisp white sneakers—for a candid chat in the museum’s soaring Grace Rainey Rogers Auditorium.
The Canadian-born, London-based designer reflects on his two decades leading his eponymous brand, as well as the beginnings of his career, his love of history and, like the rest of the world, his recent discovery of the hit hockey collection Fierce competition. “Alina and I had discussed the possibility of collaborating with the Metropolitan Museum of Art several years ago, and when this opportunity arose—especially in the context of the 20th anniversary—it felt like a perfect fit,” said Morarioglu Fashion. “I’ve known Alina for many years and I’m honored to be asked to do this.”
In a discussion with an old friend, Morarioglu recalled how he got started in the fashion world, including his childhood preference of wearing specific colors for long periods of time, such as pale yellow or royal blue. Recalling the first dress he designed, he described a strapless blue dress he made for his sister’s Barbie doll when he was seven.
The designer also shared memories of his time as a student at London’s Royal College of Art in the early 2000s, including an internship at Vivienne Westwood, where he spent time studying the late designer’s iconic archives to learn his craft. When reflecting on his brand’s icons and inspirations, he cited his lifelong fascination with art and history as a reliable pillar of reference, detailing muses from Queen Elizabeth II and George Sand to Helen Smith.
Morarioglu also spoke excitedly about his recently published magnum opus, Erdem. Published by Rizzoli, the book vividly chronicles his two decades in the fashion industry through non-linear pages of sketches, behind-the-scenes snapshots of fashion shows and anecdotes from collaborators including Karen Elson, Hamish Bowles, Dr. Maria Balshaw CBE and Gabriela Karefa-Johnson. “I absolutely loved making the book,” he recalls. “I didn’t want it to be a chronological thing, but more like a collection of ideas so that maybe someone who didn’t know who I was could pick it up and understand what was going on between my ears. It’s awesome, exciting, and it’s nice to have something so personal.”
Looking ahead, Moralioglu remains busy, continuing to fulfill his duties as a Trustee of the British Museum and preparing for the 2026 Spring Exhibition in London next month. “There are so many special moments that mean so much to me. Everything from publishing the book, to my first window display at Barney’s, to the first cover of Barney’s. Fashionin [Costume Institute] Exhibition,” Morarioglu concluded, reflecting on his career highlights. “There is so much to say. “
