The Tamesis
This engineered clothing line is all about hunting. This is the third appearance by Miyamoto Kenta and Odaki Kunimasa after inheriting control of the brand from founder Daiki Suzuki. It’s now clear that the pair are careful guardians of the brand rather than mavericks of change. Hey, if it ain’t broke…
The brand’s archive spans nearly 30 years in breadth and depth, giving designers a certain degree of freedom as they draw from a wide range of hits. This season, they’ve found enough inspiration to launch around 600 styles spread across their sprawling Paris showrooms, ranging from cleverly updated brand classics to styles like the Carlyle trousers in olive flannel and the Type 5 Jean jacket in tactile flocked wool herringbone and tapered denim.
The team also developed an amplified camouflage pattern that appeared on utility jackets and baggy Norwegian military trousers. The hunting theme was most effectively reflected in the gun club check, which was used on ponchos, cuffed trousers and crew-neck jackets, and was paired with brighter leopard-print coats, knitted blanket jackets and stag-print shirts to great effect. Imagine strolling through the British countryside with a touch of Tokyo and New York.
Indeed, the joy of engineered clothing is that its garments, while relatively consistent from season to season, come together in a seemingly endless variety of worldly features. The collection’s bolder pieces, such as the orange floral wool, sunny yellow jacket and chicken jacquard skirt, each have a strong statement but still blend effortlessly together. It’s a testament to Miyamoto and Odaki’s keen instincts about the brand they inherited.
