The Tamesis
When it came time to find inspiration for his Pre-Fall collection, Elie Saab didn’t need to look further than his own backyard. “I’m thinking of Lebanese women, especially women in Beirut,” the designer said during a video call from her headquarters. “This is a collection full of love and extraordinary attachment, because we wanted to show the world that Beirut is a beautiful, unforgettable city of contrasts. It is full of sensuality, light and shadow.” To complete the painting, he showed his inspirations in a video shot in the Lebanese capital this season.
Saab was particularly interested in translating the city’s contradictions into clothing. “We were looking for something that was easier to wear and more relaxed, like a nostalgic style that was modernized but with a lot of architectural lines,” he said.
The fabric also enhances contrast. The women at Saab love lace, and here it appears in layers, draped over gradient fabrics and paired with playful cutouts or bralettes. The ’90s trend brings a retro vibe, a nod to the decade when designers began to rise to prominence.
“Our women have always been strong, but the pencil skirts of that era had this sex appeal. Now it feels like the right kind of sex appeal,” he said, nodding to the first look here, a cinnamon-colored leather pairing with matching boots and a high funnel-neck and belted jacket (to change that, he later changed into a dramatic electric blue bow-tie shirt).
Designers pointed out that for the first time, there were more daywear than evening wear (although there was also plenty of evening wear). Available in black and white, there are a variety of options, including spotted prints with sporty striped trim on day dresses or varsity jackets, and flowy cocktail dresses with plunging necklines. Timeless chic looks include adding pops of acid green, blue or auburn to monochromatic outfits, playing with texture (slim velvet pants paired with a cargo jacket, dark sequined cardigans paired with jeans, faux fur paired with draped black knits), and layering most pieces with dramatic, slightly baggy oversized tops. Szabo says his clients pay close attention to his seasonal embroideries, which here appear in botanical patterns in soft, matte tones on lace evening gowns; elsewhere, sheer shimmering veils on burnt floral treatments create a vaguely otherworldly effect — diva-like, certainly, but with a hint of grit.
In terms of accessories, the third Wave collection takes real life into consideration, with bags big enough to push to the office and styles limited to the essentials. A new handbag also just debuted in Miami and Los Angeles. Speaking of further afield, the designer plans to open new stores in India and Moscow this year. When asked about his enduring popularity, especially during a time of luxury crisis, he simply replied: “The product. Since I launched my brand, [in 1982]the product is the star.
