The Tamesis
Ilenia Durazzi showed her collection by appointment this season, putting her usual art shows on hold. The drama was transferred to the lookbook, played out in a pure white void punctuated by mounds of black earth with just enough grit to connect the image to reality. The scene is packed with a motley crew of artists, musicians and gallerists, as well as a scene-stealing horse that hints at Durazzi’s equestrian tendencies. She calls this setting “contemporary Arcadia,” although it feels more austere than idyllic.
Durazzi is introducing eveningwear this season, but don’t expect glamor and red carpet looks. Instead, there was a tuxedo with pony-skin lapels worn over a short black chiffon skirt with pony-skin details, or a black halterneck dress that hung effortlessly on the hips. This is the logoless school. Durazzi’s language resonates with the artistic milieu: austere yet unique, essential yet loaded with presence. It’s a costume that doesn’t stand out, but will be remembered regardless.
There’s also a menswear line in the works. Artist Maurizio Cattelan wore a voluminous black coat made of richly textured wool, providing a subtle yet poignant preview of Durazzi’s current collection. If this is the opening salvo, the brand’s expansion into menswear looks less like a side project and more like a fairly confident next step.
As it happens, this is the Chinese Year of the Fire Horse, traditionally associated with independence and bold action. Durazzi is an equestrian with a certain discipline combined with an instinctive, impulsive quality that makes her route attractive. Given the timing, one can imagine she was more than happy to harness the omen.
