The Tamesis
Editor’s Note: Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana launched their first Dolce & Gabbana collection in 1985. To commemorate their 40th anniversary in the fashion industry, and as part of Vogue Runway’s ongoing efforts to document the history of fashion shows, we’re adding two new digital shows from their ’90s heyday to the site through the end of 2025. The Fall 1996 collection was launched on March 6, 1996 in Milan.
A few months ago, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana launched a delicious fall collection and a coffee table book to celebrate their 10th anniversary, Fashion Call them the “new force in fashion” along with Marc Jacobs, Helmut Lang, John Galliano, Tom Ford, Isaac Mizrahi and Michael Kors. “In a decade, designers have gone from soulful losers obsessed with Sicilian shrouds and lingerie to smart businessmen who know how to balance fashion with accessibility,” the magazine wrote.
Fall 1996 really hit its sweet spot with cherry, lemon and strawberry prints (Isabella Rossellini wore a dress from the collection to the 1997 Golden Globes) mixed with floral and animal prints (which were actually neutrals in the D&G universe).
Before the fruit dessert came the main course: the same lingerie as the coat, but more romantic than before. Madonna is a friend of the brand and her name appears in the lyrics of the soundtrack, but the support garment was a far cry from the harshness of the Jean Paul Gaultier-designed tapered bras of Madonna’s Blonde Ambition era. Models had flowers in their hair, with a rose print that could have been lifted from vintage wallpaper, while cozy knitwear and textured tweeds added a rustic feel, although lining a tweed jacket with a silk print was a rather sophisticated move. With this collection, Dolce & Gabbana showed that softer interpretations of sex can sell.
