The Tamesis
It’s easy to describe Cos’ effortlessly minimalist aesthetic as Scandinavian, but at this point it feels simple (and a bit stuck in 2010). Today, the cosplay machine is a global force – you’re likely to run into someone on the London Underground wearing one of the brand’s tasteful jackets, whether in Osaka or any other city where people take a keen interest in what they wear. That’s why over the past few years the brand has taken its traveling fashion shows to Athens and Rome.
This brings us to Seoul. On a cloudless spring afternoon in the north end of the city, Cos chose the South Korean capital as its latest showcase of strength (a natural choice, considering Cos’ largest flagship store is in Cheongdam). Inside a vast unused pool space, the white running floor has gaps and appears to be filled with clouds. Even though we were underground, it felt like we were high in the sky – a little paradise, with Emma Roberts and Alexander Skarsgård watching from the front row.
Fresh off the fall 2026 shows, it’s fun to relaunch the summer collections. But the clear advantage of Cos’ see-now-buy-now model on the runway is that you can imagine these coed looks making their way from the catwalk to the streets, from wide-leg shorts to olive suede jackets, flowy ankle boots and silk trompe l’oeil denim.
Design director Karin Gustaffson, who has been with the company since its founding in 2006, said she and her team have been considering american gigoloSo they went with power cuts that contrasted with the slinky bodycon dresses of the 1990s.
The magic of Gustafson is that with a few clever design tweaks, she was able to make all of these references look understated. In her words, “less picky.” An androgynous gray suit had oversized shoulders but was softened by shawl lapels, while a belted coat might have been inspired by Richard Gere’s iconic camel trench coat, which looked like breezy cotton and fluttered gently with every step. “They have a super chic look and volume, but are also very effortless,” she says.
Also on the mood board is a curved metal sculpture by Richard Serra. They added a futuristic feel to Gustaffson and co.’s funnel necklines and ultra-sleek shirts. Juxtaposed with tactile pleated leather and pleated silk shirts. All textures are for visual effect. “We really liked the contrast of this effortless, richly textured, natural beauty, but also very clean and sharp,” says Gustafson. All in all, it’s proof that even the most understated designs can still have a point of view.
