The Tamesis
Christian Wijnants has always drawn strength from restraint. In the fall, he looked to Japanese karesansui, or landscaped Zen gardens, translating their sloping lines and stillness into thoughtful, sculptural silhouettes. “Sometimes when I want to fall asleep, I imagine something that will quiet my mind, and I’m brought back to memories of Zen reflections and visits to Kyoto gardens,” said the designer.
The main coat has no collar or lapels, reminiscent of gowns and monastic-style dresses with cocooned shoulders and pronounced waists. This was expressed most clearly in the moss wool Cumba coat and Jirono jacket, whose front panels can be left loose or tied into sculptural knots, although the idea continues in knitwear and accessories.
After more than 20 years in the business, Wijnants has built a loyal following who appreciate his passion for craftsmanship. Come autumn, there will be a range of well-structured pieces available, including cropped shirts and blazers, sometimes layered over detachable shirt bibs, and pieces with integrated scarf panels that add interest and dimension to shirts and knitted tops. The Zen garden theme is most evident in ultra-fine knits with elegant oversized ribbing. Among the pieces is a green faux fur coat from German manufacturer Steiff, which the designer said “reminds me of the stones and moss you see in those gardens.”
Developed based on the work of French landscape photographer Quentin Chamard-Bois, the prints evoke sun-dappled forests and fallen leaves. The color palette ranges from sand, light seafoam and light laurel, through moss, maroon and rust, and finally to dusty blue and Klein blue. The collection will replace the PFW show and debut in Antwerp in June as part of a three-day festival celebrating the 40th anniversary of the Antwerp Six. This will also be Wienants’ first show in his hometown. But above all, these ideas, shapes, colors and materials cannot be adequately captured on a flat screen: this is a collection best appreciated in the context of a show.
