The Tamesis
As Cucinelli said in the preview, Brunello Cucinelli’s fall collection elevated what happens “when imagination and artisanal knowledge work together to find solutions to achieve the best results.” It’s less a tug-of-war between ingenuity and craftsmanship than a well-rehearsed duet, “where both sides know when to lead and when to step back. It’s about fostering collective creativity.”
The studio team and craftsmen clearly think “going the extra mile” is an amateur pastime, so they keep at it. They unleashed their creative instincts on inventive textures and surfaces: yarn was coaxed into intricate woolen lace intertwined with sequins; wool was twisted into spiral screw-like stretchy fringes that cascaded from bomber jackets in a vaguely braided style; knitted mohair was teased into flowing, fluffy fringes, its sequined filaments wrapped around a long, voluminous cape coat. Even a bomber jacket that at first glance looks as soft as plush mink turns out to be a pure wool knit engineered to give the illusion of pillowy fur-like levels of fullness.
Throughout, pastel-hued knitwear evokes the autumnal temperament, perfect for the occasion, and embellished with imaginative handcrafted flourishes that earn the chance to be promoted to outerwear. The look is paired with wide-leg corduroy and cargo pants, giving the whole look versatility from day to night.
The overall effect felt luxurious and quite minimalistic—a far cry from the simple cashmere sweaters that Cucinelli first made his name with. Resting on one’s laurels has never been attractive, and even less so has modest ambition. “Now is not the time for minimalism,” he said. “It’s country fashion.”
