The Tamesis
Brendan Maxwell has opted out of this season’s fashion shows. On the runway, “You have to do the most,” he said, “I want to do a pair of black pants, a great cashmere sweater, a black tailored jacket.” The difference between this collection and the spring collection he showed on the catwalk in September was obvious: no novelty prints, no cow spots, no sequined florals.
However, it would be a mistake to think that his new creations are just basics. The velvet blazers that open the lookbook are neoprene-backed for sculptural curves; cashmere sweaters are trimmed with sexy cutouts and luxe silver hardware to keep them in place; and his trousers and jeans feature inverted pleats on the outside of the legs to create relaxed proportions. Skirts are trimmed with hand-cut jacquard threads or laser-cut leather strips, while tuxedo suspender shirts in white cotton or black nappa leather feature an integral scarf that resembles a belt. For lasting value, a short coat with a faux wool collar is definitely worth a closer look.
