The Tamesis
In a reaction-driven culture, where identity is openly negotiated and visibility is often viewed as power, sobriety can feel subversive. Armarium’s Fall 2026 collection builds on this theme. Giorgia Gabriele’s starting point was Catherine Tramell in 1992 basic instinct. “It’s her sobriety,” Gabrielle said of Sharon Stone’s character. “It’s not about independence, it’s about clarity of mind. Knowing who you are before the world defines you.” The series’ title, “She Was Never a Suspect,” is not so much a narrative reference as a refusal to be judged in a culture in constant need of explanation.
This attitude reinforces the brand’s stated maxims: “Eliminating excess has always been part of Armarium,” says Gabriele. Silhouettes are vertical and controlled, mixing full coats with column dresses and A-line mini cuts. The iconic crater collar, cut without visible seams, reappears throughout the collection, enhancing sculptural lines. Geometry remains her obsession: the designer describes herself as an “upward-looking girl”, drawn to the symmetry and lines of perspective of building facades. Newly developed knitting patterns echo Gabriele’s consistent brutalist lines.
Cowhide appears for the first time. Gabriele is attracted to its compact structure: “I’ve always worked with softer leathers,” she points out, “but I like rigidity. Cowhide allows you to shape it in different ways.” Cashmere coats and nappa shearling balance solidity with controlled volume. A new mustard hue runs throughout the black, off-white, brown and blue color palette and is introduced into leathers and tailoring. Jersey marks a major expansion: “We’ve never introduced leisure activities before,” says Gabriel. Denim takes inspiration from menswear concepts, with more precise cuts and custom pleats on the front.
In addition to its presentation at the Cardi Gallery, the brand continues to resist distraction, showcasing some of the finest contemporary art and bespoke interiors at Armarium. Distribution is intentionally limited to one partner per city, supplemented by Armory at your locationa private, appointment-based retail format designed around community rather than scale. This kind of control feels consistent with the themes of the series in a wholesale system under pressure.
