The Tamesis
Just a few years ago, antique cushion cut diamonds were not considered gemstones in the minds of many. However, the camera panned to Taylor Swift’s engagement announcement and everyone started asking their jewelers to source this vintage old mine diamond for their own proposals. “They are gemstones with history, character and timeless beauty,” said jeweler Stephanie Gottlieb, who has designed jewelry for Swift in the past. “Their recent popularity is indicative of what’s trending in engagement rings: glamor and one-of-a-kind gemstones that differentiate someone’s personal expression and style from recent trends.”
Curious what makes an antique cushion cut so unique and how to find the best cut for your engagement ring? Read on for the full breakdown.
What is an Antique Cushion Cut Diamond?
“Antique cushion diamonds, or old mine diamonds, are essentially the original version of the modern cushion cut,” Gottlieb explains. “Because true antiques are hand-cut, they have a completely different feel than modern cuts—larger, thicker facets, softer edges, and open culets.” This style often prevails in elongated shapes that feel like a large rounded rectangle. “Instead of tiny, sparkling sparkles, you get these broad shimmers, which are especially beautiful in natural light or candlelight,” she shares.
An open culet also looks like a small facet in the center of the stone. “It’s not a flaw, it’s part of the charm,” she added. “Modern cushions are about precision and sparkle. Antique cushions are about mood. The light is warmer and more subtle – less ‘disco ball’, more glow.”
What’s so special about an antique cushion cut?
Antique cushion diamonds have become one of the most popular diamond shapes in 2026, and for good reason. “People are too perfect. There’s a real shift toward personalization, and antique cushions are the opposite of mass production,” Gottlieb said. “No two are exactly the same, and that’s the appeal. Celebrity influence always comes into play (thanks to Taylor Swift, we’re seeing a huge shift in slim vintage cushions), but more importantly, customers are craving pieces that feel collected, rather than manufactured.”
Most old stones are rare as they are truly vintage pieces cut between the 1700s and early 1900s. “Antique cushions have inherent character, history and slightly imperfect charm that are very attractive to the modern bride,” Gottlieb adds. Most old mine engagement rings are rare because they are truly vintage pieces. However, some producers are now producing elongated cushion-shaped lab-grown diamonds to catch up with this trend.
How to evaluate whether an antique cushion cut meets the 4C standards
Because antique cushion cut diamonds are vintage, hand-cut styles, they are not actually graded according to GIA’s 4Cs (cut, clarity, color, and carat), which typically determine a diamond’s value. “That’s the importance of procurement,” Gottlieb said. She advises couples looking for old mine engagement rings to work with a skilled jeweler to find the right stone: “You want someone who knows how to hunt, not just pick from a list. The difference between a good antique cushion and a great cushion is everything.”
When looking at possible antique cushion cuts, jewelers recommend that you think about how the stone makes you feel, rather than specific specifications. “These gemstones are all about personality, so you want a stone that speaks to you visually,” she shares. “Look at the facet pattern, the shape and the way it catches the light. Do you prefer a slimmer silhouette? Something softer and more pillowy? There’s no ‘perfect’ – just preference.”
Proportion is everything when it comes to old mine diamonds, so it’s best to view the diamond in person before buying to see how it reflects light. “The bottom line is: You can’t buy an antique based on paperwork alone. Never, ever see it in action. Antique stones come to life when the light hits them,” she adds. “Also, those larger facets don’t easily hide inclusions, so you want to make sure anything inside the stone is visible to the naked eye, clean and not distracting.”
How to choose a style and settings
Choosing a diamond is only the first step in designing your engagement ring. Next, you need to consider how it appears in settings. Some people may be tempted to use genuine antique rings to carry their old stones, but many people reset them to extend their life. “Antique cushions have so much character and natural character, so the environment should enhance those qualities,” Gottlieb advises. “For those with more fashion-forward tastes, a chunky yellow gold setting can provide a modern juxtaposition and interest to vintage gemstones. For those who lean more classic, a clean, simple solitaire setting can allow the stone to really shine.”
Other tips and considerations
When looking for antique cushions to buy, it’s important to be patient. Unlike machine-cut diamonds, they are not mass-produced. “They’re definitely harder to find than modern cushions, especially really good ones,” Gottlieb said. “Demand increases and supply is fixed, so the best stones move quickly.”
Our Favorite Antique Cushion Cut Engagement Rings
Photo: Courtesy of Taylor Swift and Travis Kelce
