The Tamesis
Before accepting the Medal of Honor in Fashion from the National Arts Club, the iconic designer opened up about her years as an assistant to Anne Klein and how she eventually became the brand’s head designer. This story is part of “My First Job in Fashion,” which interviews people in the fashion industry about their roles that made them who they are today.
I was born into fashion. My father was a tailor; he made suits for men. My mother was also involved in fashion – she was a model. Growing up, I swore I would never be on Seventh Avenue in New York. I wanted to be a singer like Barbra Streisand and a dancer like Martha Graham. I’m very active. I would jump on the table; hang from the tree. I’m a natural girl. So I also had issues with broken limbs – I was a bit accident-prone. I’ve done more fashion shows in a wheelchair than I care to admit.
I ended up going to Parsons School of Design, where I failed in tailoring and they said I would never be a fashion designer. But Anne Klein hired me in my second year, when I was 21 years old. I remember I showed her all my work, all my sketches, and she said, “Take a walk for me.” She thought I was a model because I was tall. I said, “I’m not a model, I’m a designer.” She looked at my portfolio and hired me.
I have to pour coffee for everyone; I’ll make it stronger or weaker depending on how long I want to leave the studio. I remember when I first walked into the studio, I had never seen so many clothes. Why do people have so many clothes? I do not understand. I wear the same clothes every day. I want to be comfortable.
Anyway, nine months later, Anne fired me. So I went to work for Patti Cappalli, who had an activewear line called Addenda. Patty said to me, “Get your passport, we’re going to St. Tropez.” We went to St. Tropez and then to Paris; we were looking for fabrics, which was incredible, but after a while I decided it wasn’t for me. The first collection I designed for Patti was jeans and T-shirts because her store was on Broadway and Anne’s store was on Seventh Avenue. Seventh Avenue also holds a special place in my heart because of my family’s history—my father’s tailoring workshop was once there.
