The Tamesis
Taking on a revered, almost cult-like brand is never easy, especially when you’re a newcomer still trying to control the creative destiny of a fashion house. Stefano Gallici has taken over as creative director of Ann Demeulemeester after a string of designers failed to spark a long-awaited renaissance, which means his every move will be scrutinized extra keenly. This Pre-Fall collection is only his second as he continues to test his instincts in today’s intense, ever-changing reality of fashion consumption.
Gallici is too cool to have any unadulterated respect for the house’s past. Instead, he is building his own pantheon of references and inspirations. As a staunch music lover, he’s an obvious fit for a brand shaped by rock stars and music industry mythology, but he’s not content to live off that legacy. He is looking for new catalysts that fit his tastes and contemporaries, such as model and musician Jamie Bochert and Johnny Depp. “It’s more of an attitude than a character who wears the brand all the time,” Gallic said.
Cruise collections are often the show’s well-presented sibling, more practically echoing the show’s loud statement. However, Gallici is starting to make his pre-fall collections less predictable, less about the calendar and more about statement pieces with staying power. He mined the brand’s hottest silhouettes, especially its famous slouchy silhouettes, but added his own cool twist. The suit template pays homage to “Nick Cave’s archetypal tailoring,” enhancing drape while keeping it casual and effortless. Trousers were redesigned into simple flares, and Galic’s favorite dark romanticism of the Victorian era returned in the form of a detachable lace collar on a sheer velvet gown with a train. The Napoleon jacket in pinstriped wool, the classic 96/97 casual blazer makes a subtle return, and the varsity bomber jacket with deconstructed elements maintains a lively dialogue between past and present. Galic summed it up succinctly: “Charm, with a touch of nonchalance.”
