The Tamesis
The theme of friendship bracelets ran throughout Ahluwalia’s Fall 2026 collection: thick silk braids crossed the chest of draped ice-blue long sleeves and gathered at the heart; wool suits with staggered lapels and tuxedo trims, and a sculpting bodice handwoven in rich emerald green. Jeans and skirts feature intricate weaves that shape the thighs and define the hips. Priya Ahluwalia is thinking about the brilliance and resilience that comes from building a close-knit community that brings you together.
As a designer who likes to immerse herself in research, the spring 2026 theme—she named the collection “Affinity”—transitioned seamlessly into fall. (Threads of 2027 are already being woven together, Ahluwalia said in the preview.) Last season referenced the Nigerian goddess of love and fertility and Bollywood films, reflecting on the frenzied and futile approach to romantic relationships, expressed through a series of twisting and bubbling hems and blazers fringed like a bleeding heart. Foer focuses on kinship and female friendship, something that has always been fulfilling to Ahluwalia; it’s called “Birds of a Feather,” inspired by a phrase her mother always used.
The fabrics are tactile and the prints are rich, reflecting an intimacy like being on the dance floor, grabbing your girlfriend under syncopated lighting while house music booms in your chest and your shared energy makes your smile ache. Ahluwalia often refers to the women’s quilting and craft community and their own stories that span cultures and millennia. Here, it’s all about sculptural cuts and draped slips that accentuate the female figure, embellishments and embroidered feather embellishments. More utilitarian silhouettes and impeccable tailoring are softened through textured fibers and infused with warm, luxurious hues of chocolate, burgundy and burnt orange. As always, Ahluwalia works with mostly sustainable fabrics: doing so is deeply ingrained in her brand’s DNA. For this collection, she drastically reduced the amount of recycled polyester, switching to recycled yarns, unbleached denim, deadstock and organic materials.
This weave builds on a major fringe moment happening in spring 2026: Wunmi Mosaku wore a custom electric blue tiered fringed gown by Ahluwalia to win a BAFTA award on Sunday. (There are more VIP moments to come, she said.) A dramatic black dress with layers of horizontal cable knit and fringed center for some serious rocking, perfect for an awards season post-party. There’s a sense of depth to a luxe double suit, while a sheer floral piece is sexy enough to reveal the gauzy shirt underneath. A swirling ball print conceptually speaks to the ever-changing circles of friendship, while another blurry gradient laser print has evolved over the seasons, appearing on knitwear and eveningwear, evoking the sparks that fly between friends when the night is yours.
We’ve also got a sneak peek at Ahluwalia’s next Puma release, which is inspired by grassroots football and a delightful look at the bold color combinations of the designer’s Nigerian-Indian heritage. “I really enjoy working on these larger collaborations so I can get exposure to their new technologies and see what’s possible for our future,” she said.
Ahluwalia has realized that the customer base is changing for the better. “We appeal to a broad age range, so I thought there was a floral dress that would be perfect for Tracee Ellis Ross, and the same floral dress would be great for my girls to go to the club with,” she said.
As for Ahluwalia herself, she has a busy year ahead: bespoke moments, films, brand events and, she says, designing wallpapers and soft furnishings for the first generation of Ahluwalia Home – perfect for hosting her friends.
