The Tamesis
Natalia Alaverdian’s fall collection combines two seemingly unrelated trends: a specific period on the cusp of the ’90s, when power dressing began to give way to minimalism and equestrian style. “We wanted to add something new to the classics,” the designer said, pulling an upside-down polo skirt and jacket from the racks in the light-filled small building overlooking the Place des Vosges. Namely, a look nicknamed “The Duchess” consisted of a custom tan riding jacket paired with a poppy red sweater and her signature “butt-around” back-to-front jeans.
While the brand’s overall vibe may seem aristocratic, it’s always tongue-in-cheek. A faux-classic men’s striped button-down was cut to expose the shoulders; trench coats and evening gowns had lapels cut at their collars and hems; pieces that might at first glance seem “stuffy,” or at least commonplace—argyle cardigans, flared jeans—came with voluminous fur cuffs that took them somewhere else entirely. A navy cape jacket, with buttons deliberately askew, brought fun.
The petticoat is about to make a comeback this fall, and Alaverdian is getting in on the act, adding romantic white “angel wings” to the back of a black velvet figure-hugging maxi dress, an iteration of last season’s egg shape. The layering style is also back, with tuxedo shirts featuring extra sleeves that can be tied or removed to be worn separately. In one example, Alaverdian decided to make the effect effortless with a skirt-like accessory, piecing together a plaid jacket, sweater and shirt, as shown here, paired with black flared pants.
Knitwear is increasingly becoming a priority at AWAKE, and the selection here includes a gray top with dramatic cascading ruffles and, as it turns out, two scarves from the spring collection. A navy ribbed dress with lapels looks like a wallflower on a hanger, but becomes elegant once worn.
Arafudian loves a punchline, and this lineup is packed with them. For a maxi dress with buttons running down the sides, the designer said it was “office in the front and party in the back.” Likewise, many shapes are designed to twist or twist, as if pieces have been thrown from the back to the front. The velvet midi dress has a removable basque pattern on the inside “so it’s not so crazy,” she said. Designers love the look of one leg sticking out, and for that reason, layered zip skirts can be worn with the snaps closed, or have strategic openings to let one leg pass through, and that’s fine.
AWAKE specializes in making silly shoes, and for fall it’s launching boots that can only be described as boy band pom-poms. Available in leopard-print pony leather or purple suede with upright fringe. There are also court shoes with rosettes and oversized bows. Given the fashion world’s current fascination with 18th-century clothing, these guys call themselves the “Versailles.”
