The Tamesis
After she took her final bow, the music continued to blare throughout the performance space, making chatting difficult. But we managed to speak to a few industry insiders to share their first reactions.
Tiffany Hsu, chief merchandising and group fashion risk officer, Mytheresa
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut at Fendi felt like an opening statement with a confidence and clarity that was both typical of her and deeply respectful of the brand’s Roman heritage. The collection embodies her signature elegance and intellectual femininity, subtly infused with a punk-inspired edge, while the exceptional craftsmanship of the Fendi atelier ensures a seamless and compelling dialogue between tradition and evolution.
For global luxury customers, the collection offers a reassuring sense of continuity while introducing a refreshing emotional energy. Her loyal followers at Dior will no doubt recognize her code and are fascinated by this new chapter, especially in the U.S. market where her aesthetic has historically performed strongly. More broadly, the balance between sophisticated tailoring and subtle subversion speaks to customers seeking pieces that are both timeless and culturally relevant.
The interplay between structured outerwear and delicate dresses is particularly striking, embodying the tension of her creative language.
Francesca Ragazzi, Head of Editorial Content, Vogue Italia
I love how light, soft and original the accessories are, and I’ve never seen a Fendi girl look so rockin’. I love the white-collar style that pays homage to Karl Lagerfeld, and the fan vibe in the updated fur boas designed for the five Fendi sisters. This scarf is by Sagg Napoli, an artist I really admire because she focuses on the essence of people and personalities and deconstructs stereotypes.
Simon Longland, Harrods Fashion Buying Director
It’s fascinating to see Fendi’s men’s and women’s collections unified into a coherent whole under an unwavering single vision. Committed to a strict black and ivory palette, with just one unique red dress and utilitarian khaki, the brand managed to turn the focus towards a tactile mastery of texture, embellishment and fabrication. For Harrods, the outstanding opportunities are in the lace, leather and intricate embroidery on dresses and separates; these pieces perfectly embody the intersection of traditional craftsmanship and modern sophistication our clients are demanding.
