The Tamesis
For Alejandra Alonso Rojas, fashion is never fun without some kind of challenge, so this fall the designer decided to give herself a new mission – to use only materials she already had in stock. The move dovetailed with her recent focus on being completely sustainable, only she took it a step further and told herself she couldn’t get any new fabrics before using what she already had. “The series is called ‘Metamorphosis,’ and I’m thinking about how caterpillars turn into gorgeous butterflies,” Rojas said. “I wanted to turn what I had into something completely different.”
Last season, Rojas launched her first completely eco collection, so the same fabrics are used for everything in the new fall collection. Dresses are her calling card, and here they’re designed from her leftover certified sustainable silk, which is then given new colors using non-toxic dyes or completely reworked into new silhouettes. “We started oiling it, moistening it, baking it, freezing it,” Rojas said of her existing textiles. “I feel like I’m back in school, delving into working with fabrics, experimenting and trying different things.”
Her various dresses are pretty and feminine with a touch of whimsy. The red vest skirt paired with an A-line skirt has a retro feel, with black bows on the shoulders. Sky blue strapless shift dress with ruffles and ruffles throughout, inspired by Spanish pintuck master Mariano Fortuny. A one-shoulder silk dress with floral pom-poms on the shoulders for a relaxed look. It’s a tribute to Tina Chow, one of the season’s muse. “She was a big collector of Fortuny dresses,” Rojas said. “I love the way she collects fashion and then mixes it up. She is the true inventor of effortless fashion.”
While dresses in sweet hues inspired by butterflies, flowers and fruits were the highlights (especially a blue drop-waist gown with horizontal pleats on the bodice), Rojas also made eye-catching pieces. They’re not your standard basics: Her pieces include a figure-hugging khaki trench coat with a removable floral brooch, or a silk top with a dramatic low back. Her silk top can be worn alone or paired with a matching skirt. “A lot of people come to us to buy dresses, but I wanted to see how I could make something that felt like I was wearing a dress,” she said. The expansion of her universe feels fresh: Rojas has long cultivated her signature focus, and it’s promising to see her branching out beyond just dresses.
