The Tamesis
Last month, UNESCO recognized Cole as living history of a generation. The move confirms what the region’s community has known for decades: Kohl’s is about more than just eyeliner. Rooted in ritual, medicine, spirituality and self-expression, it is a living tradition that transcends borders and cultures.
Brooklyn-based journalist and author Zahra Hankir explains: “Archaeological evidence shows that people have used kohl for at least five thousand years, beginning in ancient Egypt, including Mesopotamia and the wider Fertile Crescent.” Eyeliner: A Cultural History Trace the deep roots of cosmetics. “More than just a cosmetic item, it is a cultural artefact that serves not only as a decorative item but also as a means of protection against sun exposure, eye infections, and spiritual and religious harm (including the ‘evil eye’).”
From North Africa and the Arabian Peninsula to Persia and South Asia, eyeshadow spread through trade routes and migration, taking on new forms while retaining its symbolic power. “What’s particularly striking about eyeshadow is its continuity across communities, centuries and cultures: few cosmetic practices have such a deep history across regions,” adds Hankel.
Traditionally, kohl is made from natural materials. “The most common is galena, but there’s also antimony, soot, charred vegetation, and even broken bones or gravel, depending on the region,” Hankel said. The ingredients are ground and washed by hand, stored in ornate vessels, and applied with slender sticks—part of an intimate, almost ritual process that is often passed down from generation to generation.
In a place rife with displacement and conflict, the traditional act of making and wearing eyeshadow takes on even greater resonance. “This is especially true in rural areas, nomadic communities, and places like Gaza, where the continued production and use of kohl also serves as a quiet form of cultural preservation in the face of displacement, siege, and repeated attempts at erasure,” explains Hankel.
Today, however, Cole occupies a complicated position in the global beauty world. Although the term is widely used, many products sold under the “kohl” name bear little resemblance to their traditional counterparts. “A lot of them are essentially modern eyeliners…” Hankell told me. “Using the word ‘kohl’ as a style or marketing gimmick.” In the process, its ritual and cultural dimensions are often lost.
This is why UNESCO recognition is crucial. “UNESCO recognition formally recognizes the Cole as a living cultural heritage while supporting documentation, education and community-led conservation,” said Hankel. “Naming this context is important because it stops kohl from being flattened into a generic ‘ethnic’ cosmetic and reorients the communities that sustain it.”
For Hamda Makeup, Cole is deeply rooted in her first memories. “I remember watching my mom put on eyeshadow every day,” she recalled. “She wore it the same way as classic Arabian black eyeshadow, just inside the eye.” That memory now informs her professional practice. “As a makeup artist, eyeshadow is my go-to,” she says.
Although the product may be ancient, the practice and popular makeup styles continue to evolve. “I started with an earth-toned nude eyeshadow palette,” says the makeup artist. “I start with lighter shades and work my way up to deeper depth. Then, I apply black or brown eyeshadow inside the eyes to create a classic Arabic look. I finish with mascara and lashes, and always pull out the eyes with a winged cat-eye effect, making them wide, glamorous and beautiful in that Arabian style.”
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