The Tamesis
“It’s a little rough in the finishing, but lately I’ve been trying to elevate it and ask how to make it feel really thought out,” says Edward Cumming. While visiting a Paris showroom, the leggy blonde Australian picked up a glamorous, tousled viscose piece that featured a Klimt-esque swirl of torn lining. It has become a signature of the designer, this time appearing in a rust-red hue with sky-blue spirals.
“I’m really interested in making things that feel moving, that have that mind-bending quality of human interaction,” says Cumming, who lives in Madrid. The hem is intentionally ragged to avoid further wear and tear. “I’ve always had an obsession with grabbing things, cutting into them, modifying them. What I find over time is how they evolve and the way they change and evolve only makes me love them more and makes it harder for me to part with them. If only more of us could love our clothes.
While tactile textile pieces are the focus, Cumming’s work is truly focused on the humor and lightness he finds in real life. Take, for example, this season’s paneled, bias-cut draped dress, whose sleeves ruched at the hip. This detail was inspired by a stranger he spotted holding her clothes. “A lot of my research is elementary — maybe a photo I took of a person on the street, or of a person adjusting themselves on the subway,” he says. The gesture culminated in a few different iterations, a sequined black dress that happened to be the brand’s first evening gown.
The black trench coat, which is also cut and sealed at the hem, will wear out with wear but remains manageable. “The brand has always been associated with a certain lightness; [and a] We’ve been in the summer mood for a long time, but the secret of our studio is that we love making big outerwear,” he said. “The truth is, they’re not a sales driver, but we have fun making them. “
Surprising but delightful were the upholstery-like jacquards and textured florals, sourced from a pile of discarded fabrics Cumming found in the studio and transformed into comfortable-looking hoodies and stretch-cuff pants. “I wanted to challenge the idea of what’s tasteful or what’s palatable and push a little bit of ugliness sometimes, especially when there’s a lot of neutrality in the world right now.” He strikes the right balance between rudeness and thoughtfulness.
