The Tamesis
SF1OG remains true to its melancholic teen beginnings in the fall of 2026, rooted in the period between 2003 and 2007, the era after the early Y2K optimism and before the financial crisis. Influenced by emo culture, MySpace and the relentless attention of the paparazzi, the era’s darker, more vulnerable aesthetic formed the basis of the collection, expanded upon by references to the Victorian era.
Designers Rosa Marga Dahl and Jacob Langemeyer didn’t start with a specific image, but with a feeling. “Who are you when no one is watching? What happens when you are watching?” Dahl asked before the show, which took place in a Brutalist post-war building in Berlin. In the 2000s, pop stars like Amy Winehouse and Lindsay Lohan staged their own personal crises under intense public scrutiny and the harsh flashes of cameras. Meanwhile, in the Victorian era, widows deliberately expressed their grief through black mourning clothes, heavy curtains, and veils—garments that conveyed their bereavement outwardly while also protecting their inner selves. The tension between appearance and concealment is at the heart of the collection.
Bar jackets with flared ruffles met deliberately awkward slim jeans; evening wear became oversized cardigans and scarves big enough to disappear. The urge to retreat appears in high collars, hoods and deep sides that cover nearly half of the face, projecting a distinct outsider attitude that echoes in the soundtrack: “I’m a weirdo, I’m a weirdo.”
In SF1OG, layering is both a shield and a revelation. Reused antique linens, leathers and shearlings are paired with materials like silks, sequins and velvets that never look pristine. “The uncertainty of the world has created a longing for the past in our generation,” Dahl said. “At the same time, we’re ready to be more expressive again, not just clinging to safety but trying to get away from it.” That’s youth culture too.
This tension resonates in the independent film renaissance. SF1OG’s 2010s-inspired denim – a feel few designers have dared to revisit so far – has been well received by Parisian buyers thanks to a marked improvement in quality. They hope the brand’s first leather preppy bag, unveiled on the runway this season, will follow suit.
