The Tamesis
If the spring 2026 haute couture season could be summed up in one sentiment, it would probably be the emphasis on craftsmanship—a buzzword that is growing in popularity in the world of high fashion and that continues to have a life of its own. Precious craftsmanship is once again brought to the forefront, and figure-hugging silhouettes throughout the collection offer their own interpretation of why we should continue to appreciate haute couture today.
With his debut at Dior, Jonathan Anderson wholeheartedly embraced this mission. He began by paying homage to his hero and predecessor John Galliano, basing the set and much of the entire collection on cyclamen that the former Dior creative director brought during a visit to the studio. Flora and flora are spread throughout the space, including cyclamen ceilings, bouquet earrings, grass-like fringed bags and leafy parasols. Still, the main focus remains on craftsmanship, which Anderson and his studio apply to non-traditional fashion materials, such as knitwear and accessories made from meteorites and fossils.
Other designers have gone the way of old-school provocateurs, such as Valentino’s Alessandro Michele, who presented his feathered showgirls through the lens of a couture show. The format was inspired by the Caesar Panorama, a Victorian form of three-dimensional entertainment in which voyeurs could view the show through miniature windows. It turns out this antique setup is very relevant to the way we consume fashion today, although thankfully an iPhone is more portable than a round paneled room.
On the other hand, some, like Matthieu Blazy, who made his debut at Chanel, completely shirked responsibility for designing for digital screens, instead questioning how effortless the studio’s artistic abilities really were (although his bubblegum mushroom forest set provided a vibrant wow factor). Happily, the result was a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it masterclass, offering hand-stitched silk organza love letters and airy skirt suits that were ready for takeoff with the help of embroidered birds. Not to mention, Viktor & Rolf literally took to the air, hanging models on fashion kites for the finale look.
Elsewhere, Schiaparelli achieved further viral fame by re-exploring the animal kingdom with an ensemble cheekily named the “Isabella Puffer” and a scorpion-tail corset – similar to the near-life-size faux lion head that once rested on Kylie Jenner’s shoulders. In a way, this season’s collection redefines the concept of “back to basics” by borrowing craftsmanship from nature, although there are certainly no basic garments here.
Birds of a feather flock together
Air sign supreme
organic matter
aquatic abstract
crown jewel
