The Tamesis
If you’re not naturally gifted with lips, you’ll have to turn to fillers to get the juicy, plump lips of your dreams. But if someone (or an algorithm) told you that a serum could get the same results without a needle and cost a fraction of the price of an injection, would you use it?
If so, you’re not alone. Volufiline is a popular ingredient that has incredible plumping effects. Content creator and skin influencer Amy Mataczynski first discovered the ingredient on TikTok a few years ago, and after a few weeks of consistent use, she says she’s already noticed results. “The idea of a botanical ingredient that would make your skin look plumper without the need for injections sounded too good to pass up,” says Matasinski Fashion. “I ended up buying a Korean beauty serum and the rest is an interesting history.”
But how much does this magical ingredient live up to its name?
What is Volofelin?
Volufiline is a patented cosmetic ingredient originally developed by the then-French company Sederma (acquired decades ago by the now-defunct cosmetics company Croda). According to Natacha Bonjout, a French pharmacist and founder of Bonjout Beauty, the ingredient is based on the plant extract Anemarrhena root and is rich in sarsaparogenin, which can stimulate fat cells. “Its position in cosmetics is to enhance skin volume and contour by affecting lipid metabolism in subcutaneous fat cells,” Bonjout said.
“[It] It’s basically a plumping ingredient,” adds Krupa Koestline, a cosmetic chemist and founder of KKT Labs. “You’ll usually see it marketed as ‘plumping’ and ‘plumping’ the skin. ” You’ll typically find it in targeted products like lip care, eye products, or facial serums,” Krupa continues. Since it’s oil-soluble, she says, it works best in oil-based serums or well-designed face creams.
How does vollufine work?
Hadley Kina g, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, says volufiline works by stimulating fat cells to store lipids in the subcutaneous tissue, the deepest layer of the skin. Dr. Kim went on to explain that it should activate receptors involved in regulating fat cell maturation and encourage the skin to store fatty lipids within existing fat cells. “This adds volume under the skin, creating a fuller, plumper look,” she says.
benefit
The biggest benefit is its purported plumping effect, but Bonjout said products containing volufiline claim to do other things, such as potentially contouring body parts like cheeks, lips, under the eyes, shoulders and even breasts or buttocks; smoothing uneven texture; and improving elasticity. Dr. King said old clinical data for Sederma showed that continued use can increase volume by 8 to 10 percent.
shortcoming
While many people stand by their first-hand experiences with the ingredient, experts say research is still limited. This means expectations about volufiline – especially the long-term effects – should be tempered. Bonjout noted that a small study conducted by Sederma showed a 2.2% increase in breast volume after 56 days of topical volufiline. Beyond this (and many reviews in society), there are no other clear studies on efficacy. “There is no robust, peer-reviewed literature demonstrating that topical application can significantly increase facial volume,” Bonjout said.
Akis Ntonos, DNP, board-certified doctor of nursing and founder of Aion Aesthetics in Manhattan, adds that volufiline should not be considered a dermal filler or a substitute for professional treatments. If any effects do occur, they are usually mild and may vary from person to person, Dr. Entonos said. “It won’t rebuild lost facial fat, lift tissue, or add structural volume. At best, it can be helpful in your skin care routine, but it shouldn’t be considered a transformative product,” he says.
