The Tamesis
In November, U.S. Transportation Secretary Sean Duffy launched a “civility campaign” urging Americans to “dress appropriately” on airplanes. In other words: Leave your sweatpants at home, put on some pants, and stop causing trouble on planes, you heathens. While Theory’s Martin Andersson certainly doesn’t design with U.S. government directives in mind, the elevated, everyday pieces he’s launching for fall 2026, in seemingly comfortable fabrics, unknowingly comply.
Andersson designed a collection of pieces that require minimal effort for maximum return: pull-on pants in a loose, tapered silhouette; sharp blazers in nylon and tropical wool; and sweater suits that convey a sense of composition. On the knitwear front, a particularly exciting development from the Theory team is that many pieces are made from super-soft yarn spun from the undercoat of young yak cows. While Anderson likes to get used to meeting the animals he sources from (the last time we met, he showed me a photo of a sheep using its wool to create a reversible coat), he had yet to get to know this newest fabric supplier. “I haven’t seen a baby yak,” he said. “But I’ve Googled the pictures and I can tell you they’re adorable.”
This season, Anderson has found his muse in Chet Baker. “You can see some ’50s influence in the silhouettes. Square silhouettes, effortless,” he said, pointing to a funnel-neck trench coat and a reversible leather jacket lined with shearling. While the ’50s are prominent, the collection is also imbued with ’90s minimalism. A hidden placket ensures optimal style on button-down shirts, while sweaters with no collar seams provide the perfect cool drape.
“Some people just have a sense of ease and ease. In theory clothes should feel like that, right?” Anderson said. “You don’t have to think too much. It should be easy.”
