The Tamesis
In the fall, Anthony Alvarez Graff took a break from performing, forgoing a packed show in favor of spending time in a private showroom in the Haute Marais.
“This was really a synthesis moment for us,” the designer explains, adding that the break allowed him to focus on prototypes and pursue ideas more fully. “I love doing this show because it’s a reunion. But when you focus on so many things outside of design, you always have to put your pen down. You’re always chasing the next season; you’re always a season late,” he said.
Looking at this well-considered lineup, he made the right call: This collection is full of intention, filled with thoughtful details—from the new brand crest to tonal tiny leaf embroideries, melted silver rivets, and slender grosgrain trim—all of which would be washed out by a klieg lamp.
Alvarez Graff explains that what he’s really interested in now is “incorporating the tension between formal and casual in design.” Take, for example, a pair of cargo pants—not too standard, not too baggy—in a workwear print, with pockets punctuated by studded patches of pony and leather. Outerwear looks strong, from a crackled “marbled” blue leather jacket to a mohair-blend plaid bomber and a funnel-neck olive trench with leather accents below the collar. For the boldest among us, there’s also one in sea-green canvas with leopard print trim.
The designers also used clever techniques to bring different worlds together. Square-neck cardigans feature a mix of floral patches embroidered with glass beads or hand-embroidered patches, a gorgeous style that also appears on sandwashed jeans for a lovely touch and finish. The striped shirt features twill breast pockets and different colored buttons for a “collected” feel. a resort Vertigo In the exhibition at the Carmignac Foundation Contemporary Art Center on the island of Porquerolles, inspiration came from plaids sprinkled with drop crystals and several beautiful ribbed sweaters with discreetly twisted lines. Legacy products include new versions of Bad Bunny’s famous embroidered hat and Chelsea boot versions of the brand’s studded loafers.
In these works, Alvarez Graff said he wanted to show “how to achieve a new equilibrium from a moment of instability.” Coats aside, it would have been interesting to see some more formal pairings, but there were plenty of strong yet subtly playful pieces here.
