The Tamesis
Berluti’s preview at its Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré store during Paris Fashion Week was considered a seasonal punchline rather than a radical new proposition, but the brand still had plenty of new things to show.
Namely: a bold new boot collection. A sturdy biker boot that reaches mid-calf, the Rombo is the boldest of the new styles and a fresh take on the Alessio shoe, reimagined as a Chelsea-style ankle boot. The new shoes add a welcome toughness to the collection, embodying the military ethos of menswear and infusing Berluti’s masculine elegance with a modern twist.
Berluti’s bronzed leather pieces are infused with jewel tones of green, red and blue, creating a subtle style that makes the brand stand out. This time, they’re adding what the brand calls “fiamma” (flame) patina to a mandarin collar jacket, along with a dash of dusty-pink cashmere. Another key piece is a dark brown bomber jacket that’s achieved a surprising weightless effect through an advanced turning process, and a plush wool coat in a delightful rust hue that won over this reviewer because it feels incredibly comfortable and flattering to wear.
The most eye-catching novelty in ready-to-wear, however, is the round-neck Forestière work jacket: the brand relaunched it two seasons ago and will now offer full suiting. A ridged suede iteration in soft blue makes for a clear red carpet statement—and celebrity stylists are taking notice. Pants in cream corduroy and slate wool were also noticeably wider, moving away from the slimmer silhouettes that conservative menswear has trended toward in recent years. It marks a subtle but thoughtful shift that exemplifies Berluti’s ability to adapt to the tastes of the times – after all, you can’t be in business for 130 years without a knack for seeing a room.
