The Tamesis
The push and pull between artificial and natural bodies wasn’t the only contradiction Poiret dealt with; the designer once famously said, “I freed the bust, I tied the legs.” He was referring to the trend for short skirts, which was soon to be replaced by the scandal-ridden tight skirts of the time. In 1913 Poiret wrote a film called ” minaret, Crossed the footlights and was adopted by kindhearted people. Seven years later, a reporter wrote: “His famous masterpiece, which imposed his spiers’ mantle on women throughout the world, is remembered by everyone.” That is, until it became a relic of a bygone world.
Is it poetic justice, fate or chance that explains the simultaneous holding of the Voss and Poiret exhibitions? Bova, who once worked for Voss, rejected the curvaceous, “upholstered” and “correct” fashions of the old brand and became the anti-Beautiful figure of Voss, just as Gabrielle Chanel became the anti-Bouvoir. While rebelling against the status quo, Poiret was also a maverick because Fashion In his words, he is “an artist who happens to work in the medium of women’s clothing… He is a law unto himself, ignoring the dictates of fashion.”
Despite being surrounded by strong women like Sarah Burkhardt and Isadora Duncan, Poiret seemed oblivious to the changes taking place in women’s lives. He seemed to view the “fair sex” as languid, decorative creatures that, while not shaped by corsets, could be transformed into some kind of fantasy vision. Fashion See Poiret using signature fringe and other ‘exotic’ furs as a special ‘touch’ [that] Each of his pieces gives the wearer a personality, like an actor playing an interesting character. ” Poiret, however, was unable or unwilling to take on a new role in the Roaring Twenties.
Post-World War I fashion might have picked up immediately where it left off, but only to catch its breath. Soon the exuberance inspired by the Far East, Spain and bygone eras will be replaced by Art Deco geometric shapes and sportswear will become part of women’s wardrobes. Women are more independent and self-directed than ever before. Poiret, who once set the trend, is now following the trend.
Indeed, many of the precedents set by Poiret are still practiced in the luxury goods industry today. Funny, because the spendthrift designer was not a model businessman; he died in poverty. Ultimately, his wealth came in the form of a generosity of spirit and wide-ranging creativity, which he applied to all aspects of life.
‘Paul Poiret’ exhibition in Paris offers opportunity to trace designer’s fashion life Fashion as primary source.
1879
Paul Poiret was born in Paris, the son of a cloth merchant. As a young man, he served a brief apprenticeship with an umbrella maker and later began selling sketches to fashion houses, first of all Chéruit, a model-turned-couturier known for his love of the 18th century and pastel colours.
1896-1900
According to Jacques Doucet, a fashion designer and playboy, Fashion, “Often called the most elegant man in France.” (Doucette was also an avid art collector, and he purchased Maid of Avignon Straight from Pablo Picasso. )
1901-1903
Employed by Gaston Worth to handle the business side, working in the studio with Jean-Philippe Worth.
1903
Poiret attracted attention — positive and otherwise — from the start. His bold color palette was critically acclaimed, and his first hit was an “innovative Confucius coat cut like a kimono” that, as Hamish Bowles put it, hinted at a new, less controlled silhouette.
A small shop opened at 5, rue Auber. “From the moment his doors opened, he was the subject of adulation and endless satire; his success was a foregone conclusion.” Fashion I wrote later.
