The Tamesis
Chef Dominique Crenn is the first legendary female chef in the United States to be awarded three Michelin stars and the chef of Monsieur Dior. She was waving enthusiastically from the deck of the Lilas, each wave seeming to propel the barge across the sun-dappled Saône. On the shore, admirers gathered: five cream-colored Charolais cows mooed as we passed.
“Hello, hello! cried Chef Klin.DesoleI’m preparing lunch! ” She turned her attention back to us and the menu Today’s newspaper– She created this vessel specifically for Belmond Les Bateaux as its first culinary curator, a fleet of seven French river barges, including our good ship Lilas, that traverse the network of rivers and canals in Burgundy, Champagne and southern France.
As we sail along the fashionable route Hotel Penichea journey through chef Crenn’s childhood summers in Brittany, and the seasonal delicacies of the surrounding region: spring pea tarts topped with trout roe, asparagus picked from the riverbank in the morning with caviar and saffron, Raviole du Dauphiné with bouillabaisse and thick braids of mussels and crabmeat, and an elegant lemon and olive oil cake sprinkled with tarragon and pistachios. We were energized by the vibrant Chablis from the local family-run Domaine des Malandes. Lilas slouches toward Mâcon, where chef Crenn sunns himself on the polished teak steps of the deck pool.
“I hope you fall in love with Burgundy as much as I do. There’s so much more to discover if you can force yourself off the boat!” she said, tossing the remaining gold leaf from the dessert in the air; the second was Lilas’ culinary baptism, and we made the barge our home for the next five nights.
Before Lilas became a member of the LVMH-owned Belmond family, her name was Josiane, a 40-meter river cargo ship that transported grain in France from 1952 to 2017. Designer Inge Moore began her restoration inspired by a biophilic design sensibility: rooms are decorated with lilacs, from which the ship takes its name, and gorgeous Carrara marble bathrooms. The four bedrooms (one above deck and three below) are so spacious that one even has space for a freestanding tin bath. The master cabin is bathed in pale morning sunlight and lavender sunsets, all furnished with light rattan furniture and lime-washed oak walls. Stacks of periwinkle knitted blankets can be placed outside on cooler evenings, while hurricane lamps provide ambiance for aperitifs. The bookshelf is filled with read books World Wine Atlas and Richard Olney’s Simple French foodcomplete with a map of the region’s wines and cheeses, dozens of which we’ll sample along the way. Outside, Lilas wore white and blue stripes, like the Breton shirts worn by our captain and five crew members. Slender portholes provide a tableau for gazing at passing castles and medieval churches while enjoying a slow breakfast: warm Viennese from the local bakery we anchored nearby, jewel-like apricots and citrus, soft goat cheese sprinkled with pepper, spread on warm baguettes.
Our itinerary was equally malleable, from Lyon to Montmelle, Tourny, Chalon-sur-Saône, Beaune, Serres, Dijon and Saint-Jean-de-Laune: local wines, local cheeses and our trip to the markets shaped the day the most. Before embarking on our trip to Lleras, our group gathered in Lyon to visit the famous covered market Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse (named after the “Pope of French Gastronomy”) and sample nutty, creamy Saint-Marcelin cheese, truffled ham and sparkling pink praline brioche. My admiration for a hearty bowl of oeufs en meurette and hearty meatballs was quietly recorded and later featured on the in-flight menu, which was presented to us every morning on beautiful scalloped edge cards. But ultimately, this tour is a sensual, unhurried immersion in the terroir for wine lovers, designed for those who enjoy pairing Grand Cru vineyards with the gentle rhythms of time, elegance and the river.
