The Tamesis
Not only is the Salmon Sperm Facial avant-garde, it’s celebrity-endorsed and actually delivers on its claimed results of glowing, healthier-looking skin. These professional treatments are powered by the active ingredient PDRN, or polydeoxyribonucleotide. “It’s a piece of DNA,” says Eunice Park, MD, a dual board-certified facial plastic and reconstructive surgeon and founder of AIREM in New York. (Not purely sperm, as the hype would have you believe.)
The efficacy of PDRN has been studied primarily in the context of wound repair, says Babak Azizzadeh, MD, a board-certified facial plastic surgeon in Beverly Hills and president-elect of the American Society of Facial Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery. “In clinical and experimental settings, it is believed to work by activating adenosine A2A receptors, helping to calm inflammation, stimulate neovascularization, and support the skin’s natural healing process and collagen turnover,” he explains. By addressing skin health concerns from within, the ingredient is praised for its ability to heal damaged skin, reduce dark spots, smooth texture and promote hydration. Brian Murdock, general manager of North America for Korean beauty brand Memebox, said that the skin-rejuvenating effect of PDRN was first studied as early as the 1980s, but has since been widely used in Korean skin care and dermatology treatments, including injectables.
FashionFavorite PDRN skin care products
Rejuran Turnover Ampoule c-PDRN Anti-Aging Facial Serum
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Innisfree Retinol Green Tea PDRN Skin Enhancement Ampoule
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VT Cosmetics PDRN 100 Essence Intensive Glow Serum
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The most common professional-grade treatment product is Rejuran Healing Essence. The formula uses PDRN extracted from salmon sperm cells, which are collected when the fish swim into the company’s specially designed facility at the end of the mating season. Dr. Park uses this formula in her practice and notes that many practitioners in Korea apply the product through multiple shallow injections, unlike Juvéderm’s skin booster SkinVive. Rather than injecting it, Park applies it to the skin after a microneedling or laser treatment. “It’s like giving your skin a vitamin supplement,” she says.
Given its popularity and performance in clinical practice, it is not surprising that PDRN has entered the field of topical therapy. Dr. Azizzadeh confirmed that topical PDRN appears to be most promising when paired with delivery methods that enable it to reach deeper layers of the skin, such as the previously mentioned microneedle or laser-assisted channels. “Even so, research is still evolving and conclusions should be drawn with caution,” he noted.
As we dig deeper into this story, we want to know: Why salmon? “When PDRN first gained traction, its use began with salmon-derived PDRN after they discovered that salmon sperm had similarities to the DNA found in human placenta,” explains cosmetic chemist and podcast co-founder Victoria Fu Confessions of a Chemist. To determine if your formula actually contains PDRN, simply search for the term “DNA sodium” in its ingredient list. “These should all contain a version of the DNA fragment,” Fu said. “However, the label doesn’t tell you where the DNA fragment came from.”
This is important because in addition to salmon-derived products, there are now plant-based PDRN creams on the market. Yes, most studies are on salmon DNA fragments, but there are some studies demonstrating the efficacy of plant-based PDRN; for example, ginseng-derived PDRN supports skin regeneration and barrier function.
Whether you’re looking for a PDRN serum made from salmon, or a PDRN serum that meets vegan beauty standards, read on—we’ve found the best PDRN serums, creams, masks, and more to suit every skin type, goal, and preference.
In this story:
Best Overall: Rejuran Turnover Anti-Aging Facial Serum Ampoule
- Why we love it: This PDRN serum is made by Rejuran, the company that makes the most popular iteration of the in-office treatment. Its power comes from a concentrated dose of salmon-derived actives, which have a very small molecular size and are easily absorbed (1/670 the size of a pore). “Results can actually be quite good after in-office treatments such as microneedling or using an at-home microneedling device,” explains Dr. Azizzadeh. “With continued use, results tend to appear gradually—expect improved hydration, smoother texture, and a healthier-looking glow, rather than dramatic tightening or immediate wrinkle elimination.” For an extra boost of vitality, the formula contains adenosine and licorice root to further help smooth wrinkles and brighten skin.
- PDRN type: Salmon-derived PDRN
- PDRN Concentration: 0.5%
- Main ingredients: Adenosine, licorice root extract
- size: 1.01 liquid. ounce.
