The Tamesis
Brunello Cucinelli looked suave and confident at today’s menswear show at his Milan headquarters. Relaxed, chatty, and totally in his element, he regaled his audience of editors and buyers with a series of Cuccinelli-isms: part philosophy, part business lesson, part oracle on the meaning of modern luxury.
And honestly, who could blame him for being so elated? When your company just had record-breaking annual sales, with revenue up a solid 10.1%, optimism comes as easily as a cashmere blazer. While much of the fashion world seems to be navigating choppy waters, Cucinelli is still calmly strolling through them in soft suede loafers.
Now he can add “actor” to his resume, thanks to Giuseppe Tornatore’s newly released film Brunello, Il Visionario Garbato [Brunello: The Gracious Visionary]there is nothing left to solidify Cuccinelli’s position. The film, a lyrical biopic that chronicles his rise from humble beginnings to entrepreneurial stardom, is less an investigation than a cinematic endorsement of his worldview. It’s not so much a revelation as a reminder: In Cuccinelli’s hands, his oft-repeated mantra of “moderate growth” is anything but soft, but comes with enough force to make rivals completely reconsider their definition of “moderate.”
Although busy expanding the company, doubling the size of the Solomeo headquarters, adding a new menswear tailoring facility, and even moonlighting as a screen actor, Cucinelli remains focused on the collection: every piece is personally tried on before going into production. The Cucinelli style evolves each season through subtle adjustments to silhouette and discreet updating of details, never wavering from its founding creed: to flatter the male physique with the refined indulgence of the Italian peacock.
Semi-breasted blazers dominated the collection, which was no surprise since Cucinelli believed that well-tailored jackets “give you posture.” Featuring soft shoulders and a slightly elongated silhouette, these pieces enhance their presence while retaining the brand’s signature hair removal: Italian indifference is studied and clearly required meticulous rehearsal. Slightly higher-waisted wide-leg trousers accentuate the refined, vintage elegance of tailoring, while pocket cargo pants in thick corduroy add an air of balanced friction.
Cucinelli named the series imitation of nature artto paraphrase Aristotle, art imitates nature; a fitting motto for someone obsessed with balance. “I desperately want peace,” he said. “I long for a world with respect, grace, humanity, less arrogance and less turmoil.”
