The Tamesis
Oh man: it’s that time again. As the Fall/Winter 2026 men’s shows land in early January, think of it as the fashion world’s first weather forecast of the year. That’s why, before 2026 kicks off, we gathered six creatives from across the menswear category to express their thoughts on the current climate, and how they expect the atmosphere to change in the future.
The breadth of this informal fashion focus group was purposeful. Its members include three highly regarded young indie fighters – Rolf Ekroth, Saul Nash, Bianca Saunders – as well as indie veteran and late-blooming sensation Willie Chavarria. Also joining the mix is Jonny Johansson, the founding force behind Acne Studios. The group was then completed by Alessandro Sartori, artistic director of Zegna, probably the largest luxury men’s fashion brand by revenue (full-year turnover of 1.16 billion euros in 2024), or the men’s equivalent of Chanel.
Here’s the thing.
break the mold
Among our panel of menswear makers, the most consistent feedback was an observed interest in experimentation driven by individualism, and a subjective weeding of the swamp of command and hype.
“There’s less emphasis on getting the exact ‘right’ look,” says Ekroth. “Clothes feel more personal, more durable, and you can mix and match to your liking.” Nash adds: “The influences are really mixed. People look back at what happened before, but they don’t value it. You’ll see combinations that might not have made sense a few years ago, but now feel natural.” Saunders also sees a trend toward prototype pieces with unique details. “Individualism is becoming more and more important, but it falls into the category of ‘What are the essential elements that make me feel like an individual?'” she said.
Johnson observes a trend toward a more liberal approach. “I find it interesting to observe how young people today view classic menswear: what they choose to borrow, what parts they take apart or pick up. Little things matter: the way you tie a scarf, the slightly wrong way to wear a tie,” he said. Sartori, who maintains close contact with Zegna’s affluent clients, mostly seniors, identified a similar need. “They come to us like [they go] “They don’t want to stay within the usual framework,” Sartori said. They wanted to feel modern, but still be themselves. “
Chavarria believes there are broader, sociological instincts behind this more open approach to personal style through menswear. He said: “The future of fashion is not a runway carved out of one identity. It is a mosaic… We are finally at the point where the future of fashion refuses to let masculinity be defined solely by dominance or power.” Another designer, Nash, whose clothes aim to evolve tradition, for him the process starts with ensuring the product is functionally efficient. “For me, menswear becomes very interesting when you can meet these functional needs and express more at the same time,” he said. “It’s about starting with functionality and then designing in a way that tells a story or gently challenges those outdated ideas of masculinity without feeling forced.”
