The Tamesis
In the spirit of transparency, you should know that I personally am not tired of orange wine. In fact, I might like it after writing this. But in recent conversations with wine peers (sommeliers, wine journalists, etc.), it’s clear that a budding weariness with the skin-fermented style is budding in cities like Paris, New York, and Los Angeles. It seems a fool’s errand to guess why things like this are happening in the wine industry right now, but if I had to guess, there are probably a few things.
First, the proliferation of natural wine and its evangelical drinkers has led to an unflattering perception of orange wine as merely a trend. Second, it’s not uncommon to feel burnout with a certain style of wine (I think we’ve all experienced this with rosé at some point in our lives), and perhaps some tasters experience this lethargic feeling with orange wine.
I could go on stage and explain why this method of winemaking—fermenting white grapes with their skins on—produces delicate, year-round wines. I could also dwell on the fact that it is actually the oldest form of craft wine and not a short-lived trend. But alas, if your taste buds are just craving a change of pace, the styles below still offer the texture and complexity of some of the best amber wines in the world.
Alsace Riesling
When you love wine, it can feel lucky to meet someone whose tastes closely align with yours. That’s what I thought when I met Claire King, sommelier at Nemo Bay, a wilderness lodge on the coast of British Columbia. One night I mentioned to her over dinner that I loved Riesling from Alsace. So does she. The next day, Claire tasted a whole Riesling in a forest by the water. To pay homage to our environment, she pours exclusively Rieslings from local producers such as Terravista and Pamplemousse Jus (great names). However, Canada’s wine import and export laws are strict and complex, so most wine remains in the country. (All the more reason to go to Nemo Bay.)
But back to Alsatian Riesling. Unlike its popular neighbor Germany, which ranges in sweetness and is typically lighter-bodied with clean, delicate fruity aromas, Alsatian Riesling is typically dry, medium- to full-bodied and is often described as minerally with aromas of flint and white flowers. A little salty, a little herbal. “As the seasons change, I look forward to drinking white wines that have body and texture, and Alsace Riesling is a favorite of mine,” explains Claire.
dry sherry
Half the reason I love orange wine so much is that it’s often the medium through which I discover new grape varieties, farming techniques, and winemaking methods. As it happens, Shirley ticked all those boxes. A few years ago, on the first day of my visit to Jerez (a place that specializes in sherry), the sweltering heat of that first outdoor lunch made me long for a cold glass of, I don’t know, anything But fortified wine. Nonetheless, a glass of fino sherry was delivered to my table and I have never been the same since. Dry to the bone, briny, and with notes of almond, vanilla, bread, and citrus, it was just what I needed.
