36 Hours on the Amalfi Coast, Italy: Things to Do and See

The best and most picturesque way to get to Amalfi from Sorrento is by ferry (about an hour and a half, depending on the stops, about 25 euros). The cathedral near the port of Amalfi, known as the Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea but better known as the Duomo di Amalfi, dates from 987 but has been renovated many times over the centuries (entrance fee 3 euros). Romanesque and Byzantine elements show how this port town was associated with other maritime powers in its heyday. Legend has it that if you walk hand in hand with your loved one up the stairs (62 in total), you will not end up marrying them. After visiting the Holy Land, return to earth and have a cappuccino and cappuccino at the beloved Pasticceria Pansa café and bar next to the cathedral (€12 per table, €4 if standing at the bar).

The Path of the Gods above Amalfi is a hiking trail surrounded by olive trees, vineyards and lemon groves overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and is very busy in high season. But a quieter, more secluded, shady and adjacent hike is the Valle delle Ferriere, which passes the ruins of the paper mills that were once the main source of income here. The approximately three-hour loop also leads to a nature reserve planted with stately poplars, as well as the picturesque medieval village of Pontone, but you can modify the route for shorter distances. At the end of your walk, you can visit Amalfi’s Paper Museum (Museo della Carta), housed in a 13th-century mill that was carefully restored in 1971 and displays the original gavel and printing press (admission 3 euros).

When Jackie Kennedy fell in love with the area, she put La Tonnarella, a simple but charming waterfront restaurant, on the map, and the owner said she frequented it frequently. It’s a few hundred steps down from the quiet fishing village of Conca dei Marini, about a 10-minute taxi ride from the port of Amalfi (approximately 24 to 29 euros; take one from the station). Dishes include baby fried calamari and fresh lobster pasta. Lunch for two, without wine, costs about 100 euros.

From Conca dei Marini, take the Sita Sud bus (about 25 minutes) to the Amalfi Coast Mall Positano: Ceramiche Casola has been making hand-painted plates and more since 1925. The colorful plates cost about 80 euros each, and the store can deliver larger items, such as flower pots, home. Bottega di Brunella kimonos and silk and linen dresses are designed and made in town (organic linen trousers cost €225). Meanwhile, at Safari Positano, handmade sandals (from €85) come in almost every imaginable style and color combination. After shopping, treat yourself to a glass of Buca di Bacco ice cream – try the Limone di Amalfi or the strawberry ice cream (both flavors are €5).

In a 1953 Harper’s Bazaar article, John Steinbeck described Positano as a small, remote fishing village with few tourists. Unfortunately, the town is now overcrowded, but Le Sirenuse still has the same legendary family ownership it had when Steinbeck visited. Antonio and Carla Sersale have made the property comfortable and familiar, yet always updated. One of the hotel’s bars, Franco’s, is named after the beloved patriarch and is one of the best places to enjoy an aperitif (classic Negroni, 25 euros). In 2024, new mosaic tile artwork designed by Nicolas Party was added to the hotel’s high-profile swimming pool. This year, Le Sirenuse opened a chic beach club (closed to non-residents) 25 minutes away in Nerano. At La Sponda restaurant, hundreds of candles on the terrace add to the romantic atmosphere, but the minimum spend of 160 euros per person may be prohibitive for non-guests. Aldo’s restaurant, also on site, is a more casual option (dinner for two, about €160).

For those who want to experience nightlife in a cave overlooking the sea, Music on the Rocks in Positano is open every day from 7pm to 4am, with VIP rooms and DJs playing everything from the 70s to Lady Gaga (tickets are 30 to 50 euros, including a drink). Clubs carved into the rock seem to be a symbol of Amalfi: the small town of Il Pirata in Praiano is one of the coast’s hidden gems, transformed from a beach club and restaurant into a sophisticated bar lounge open until 1am. Try the Mr. Negroni Goes to the Coast, with house-made vermouth, Campari, Solaro Capri gin and limoncello foam (€20).