The Tamesis
Getting fuller lips doesn’t require a trip to a dermatologist’s office (unless you want to, of course). There’s one simple ingredient that can give your lips just the right amount of plumping effect: hyaluronic acid.
Hyaluronic acid is a humectant, meaning it’s a molecule that attracts and binds water, says Blair Murphy-Rose, MD, FAAD, a board-certified dermatologist in California and founder of Skincare Junkie.
Pooja Rambhia, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Union Derm in New York City, adds, “It can hold a thousand times its own weight in water,” helping the skin retain moisture and preventing moisture from evaporating. “[Hyaluronic acid] Can significantly increase skin hydration, improve skin elasticity, texture, and the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. “
Can hyaluronic acid really fill lips?
Use a topical hyaluronic acid serum that you normally use in your skincare routine to plump your lips. Dr. Rambhia explains that there is some clinical evidence that topical hyaluronic acid can “attract some water to the lip surface and into the superficial tissues and create a temporary plumping effect through hydration.”
Both she and Dr. Murphy-Ross stress that the effects are subtle and never as noticeable as lip fillers. Dr. Murphy-Ross adds: “It will hide fine lines and wrinkles to a certain extent and will only give a more dewy look rather than true volume gain.”
How is hyaluronic acid different from traditional lip gloss?
Dr. Rambhia and Dr. Murphy-Rose explain that many lip glosses contain ingredients like black pepper, cinnamon, or peppermint, which cause vasodilation, or the widening of blood vessels.
This increases blood flow to the tissue, “so you get swelling, which creates a volumizing effect,” says Dr. Rambhia. “Often, this is accompanied by a stinging, burning sensation, which can lead to a contact dermatitis type reaction in patients with more sensitive lips.” However, these spicy ingredients may produce a more noticeable plumping effect than hyaluronic acid alone.
How to lock in moisture after applying hyaluronic acid?
In addition to applying hyaluronic acid, using an occlusive product like petroleum jelly or Aquaphor can also help retain moisture. “Transepidermal water loss is reduced, so moisture is retained longer,” explains Dr. Murphy-Rose.
Who is not suitable for using hyaluronic acid?
Dr. Murphy-Ross says hyaluronic acid is a gentle, well-tolerated and safe ingredient for sensitive skin.
What you need to be aware of, though, is whether hyaluronic acid serums contain other fragrances or preservatives, which may cause a reaction, Dr. Lambia notes. “But unless these types of exposure reactions occur … you can’t go too far.”
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